Positive,negetive, or symmetrical. Where does your arrow ride?

[Hamish]

Depends, on whether the bow bends through the handle or has a stiff handle.

Bend through the handle I like an arrow pass 1" above centre. Its seems to be the best compromise. AP at the middle, hand takes up too much of the lower limb. AP 2" above the centre looks wrong to me.

For a stiff handled bow I prefer equal length limbs, AP 2" above centre. Alternatively a lower limb 1" shorter works well too.

[HH~]

Like some positive tiller at brace and some at FD.

Where the arrow passes really get decided for me by the shooter the bow is getting gifted to.
Does not matter if its symmetrical or bottom limb is a tad shorter.
A really good shooter can shoot one about any way or where arrow passes but knows how he wants his arrow pass and where.

Most who cant tell me their aiming process, i kinda figure they shoot a more instinctive method. Most of those guys like pass right above hand be it “1 or 2” above center. Where as if a fella tells me i gap and always have. Then, middle of bow is center and pass is 1.25-1.50” above center.

Dont think a selfbow can be made generic for every shooters ability. Some suit styles better than others. One thing i notice right off is: If a person has to shoot the bow laid over sides to toward 3 or 9 o'clock something is not correct with bows set up.

Shawn~

[aznboi3644]

Hedge am I reading this correct.  You are saying your opinion is something is wrong if someone shoots canted?

I really just try and balance the limbs.  My tillering tree is not flat up top so I can see the bow rock as it is drawn.  Also I cannot shoot at all with the bow vertical.  Half of my field of view is obstructed and I find myself straining my neck which causes pain.  Two serious car accidents and I have a lifetime of neck issues so I have to shoot canted pretty hard about 45* or more

[Yellowstave]

So it seems to me that if one were to use the tillering tree to tiller then you should not only set the bow at the balance point on the handle but also as you pull the string you should pull at 1.25 inches above center on the string. This is of course the variable and determined by ones shooting style. I have noticed that my tiller on the tree vs my tiller of my draw are different so I adjust my points of contact on the string and the handle when on the tree. This seems to kinda level out that balance. After all when you center handle and string on a tree, you fail to mimic a person's draw.

[DC]

If your arrow is at 1.25" above center then shouldn't you be pulling at some distance less than that depending on whether you shoot split or three under.

[bradsmith2010]

DC,..I'm confused

[DC]

Does that help? I added a couple of words

[burchett.donald]

So it seems to me that if one were to use the tillering tree to tiller then you should not only set the bow at the balance point on the handle but also as you pull the string you should pull at 1.25 inches above center on the string. This is of course the variable and determined by ones shooting style. I have noticed that my tiller on the tree vs my tiller of my draw are different so I adjust my points of contact on the string and the handle when on the tree. This seems to kinda level out that balance. After all when you center handle and string on a tree, you fail to mimic a person's draw.


                                                                                                                                                           

    http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,62531.0.html
    This older thread may shed some light...My fulcrum depicts my arrow placement...

[PatM]

I also prefer the  slight positive because the natural position of the extended arm and hand is slightly inclined forward a few degrees.

 I often see full draw pics with the wrist being crushed backwards at the top.

  The way a Yumi looks  in the hand is the most natural stress free grip.  That's why pistol grips are so popular in many bows.    They mimic the forward tip.

[Yellowstave]

Thanks burchett Donald. That is a very interesting thread. Thats is also what I've been noticing on my tree at home.

[George Tsoukalas]

I like final tiller to be determined by a digi photo or a mirror and as I mentioned I like the bottom limb stronger at full draw  by a bit or even at full draw. The way I grip the bow is taken into account. Jawge

[Weylin]

Yeah, I ditch the tiller tree as a gauge of tiller once I get within a few inches of full draw. I switch to judging the tiller when the bow is drawn by hand. At that point I just use the tiller tree to get the weight accurate. It's just not good enough at imitating a true draw, in my opinion. I do my best to set the bow up on the tree to represent how it will be drawn and that helps somewhat.

[SLIMBOB]

Ditto Weylin. The tree for me is mostly used to get the weight right in the final stages. It’s mostly done by hand in the end. Tiller stick early, tiller tree, then in the hand.

[HH~]

Only the bow in hand will determine how it sets up for a right or left hander. But that is the builders perspective. Best to know the shooter and his shot process for the final fitting.

Have a 50@27” HedgeHunter at the great Gil M’s now. He shooting it in and wants a couple small fit changes. He fresh off the Australian Longbow Cup top 10 finish. Only the shooter can decide what is best for his shooting method. Bow just has oil finish til mods are complete.

HH~

[burchett.donald]

 Yep, bow in hand, I like mine totally balanced at full draw...That cradle keeps me balanced until the last few inches...kudos to you tougher than nails guys that can pull your bow without a tree...I use the roller, cradle and scale until I'm close...
                                                                                                                                                               
                                                                                                                                                                   Don