Hazel longbow, 100# @ 28"

[Del the cat]

That's looking better, just scraping away tool marks and rounding the corners off (especially at the tips .. last 8" or so) will help gain the last inches of draw.
I'd then get some arrows through it to give it a chance to settle and then have another look at it.
If the right limb is the upper, you could round those corners just a bit more which will help give it a hint more bend and will take some stress off the left limb.
Tiny changes will effect the balance and tiller, it doesn't take much to fine tune a bow at this stage.
Del

[FilipT]

Will do that, except shooting. I don't have suitable arrows yet and this string might not be best choice for shooting this kind of bow. That is why I am ordering soon feathers, string material and some other things to make arrows suitable for these higher weights.

[FilipT]

I scraped both limbs, made the bend more circular but I think left limb is a bit stiffer; scraped the tips too and center to bring limbs down more. I think the tiller is good but not total perfect. I rasped the radii on the edges and sanded the bow to 400 grit. After everything was done, bow showed 100# at 28" draw. After I make arrow pass mark I will coat the bow with beeswax. Tomorrow you will get more pictures, it's raining outside so I couldn't shoot some photos.

Question: what to do about arrow pass? What are materials that could be put there and are easy to obtain? I thought about putting piece of horn from arrow nocks reinforcement.

DIMENSIONS:
Length nock to nock: 70"
Length tip to tip: 72"
Width at center: 34 mm (1,33")
Thickness at center: 24 mm (0,94")
Set: 21 mm (0,83")
Width profile is gradual taper to the tips.

FULL DRAW


UNBRACED PROFILE

[Del the cat]

For an arrow pass, horn, bone, antler, mother of pearl or nothing at all.
You only really need an arrow pass if you are shooting heavy arrows with binding on the fletchings as these can rip into soft wood.
Someone will tell you that this isn't true, but I've had to put arrow passes onto Yew Warbows that have been severely worn so I know it to be true.
Good job with the bow, it's not easy to get 100# from a piece of Hazel
BTW, funny how subjective it is, I'd say right is still very slightly stiffer especially in the outer third. Over all much better and looking good, get some arrows through it and review it after a month's shooting to see if the tiller has shifted
Del

[WillS]

Make your arrows well and you don't need an arrow pass.  They weren't used historically because authentic arrows have the bindings sealed under wax or resin.  Make them with thick ugly binding and you might want one.

It's a Victorian addition and considering how you're using sidenocks it would be pretty weird to have an arrow pass as well, but that's just my opinion.

[FilipT]

I thought about arrow pass because if I don't put anything, how I will know where to put arrows? Is there a way to mark the center or that pass without arrow scraping it off? I thought about india ink but this will surely come off after repeated shooting. That is the only reason why I mentioned arrow pass.
When you mention "sealed", you are thinking about verdigris compound that is in thickness just over the binding, right? I would like to make my first arrows with this stuff.

Del, that outer third houses this kink you can see on unbraced profile; I was a bit afraid it would ruin the tiller if I concentrate too much on that area so I left it a bit stiffer.

[WillS]

One easy and authentic method is just to use pure beeswax under the fletchings, bind them into it with strong silk and gently heat the wax afterwards.  It will melt slightly, coating the bindings and set into a hard layer over them.

The easiest way of marking the arrow pass is simply to scratch a small mark in the wood.  That's how the MR bows were marked.  You could also burn a simple design in, or just draw/paint something. 

[FilipT]

Apart from bindings, do you coat the rest of the arrow with beeswax, do these arrows have any coat for protection or are they just bare wood?

I think I will just heat the head of some big nail and press into the wood.

[WillS]

We've currently got no evidence that any arrow shafts were sealed or coated with anything.  Burnishing usually does enough, and some common arrow shaft woods are extremely rot resistant, such as aspen.  Obviously not an issue to them, but sometimes you'll find the arrows get muddy and dirty with lots of shooting, so a modern finish like oil might be an option, depending how authentic you wish to get!

[FilipT]

Interesting, makes sense. This winter I am getting into serious arrow making haha.

[Badger]

   Good job, the bow only shows some set just past mid limbs toward the tips, I am wondering if you may have side tapered it a bit too much in that area. Overall very good job!

[FilipT]

I think they might be, but also these were the places of some kinks and that overall affected the set.

[Del the cat]

Heat the head of a big round headed nail and use that to burn in a mark
Del

[FilipT]

That is what I will do.

[willie]

That is quite the bow for white wood, Filip. Are you going to shoot in warbow events? SCA?
when I was a bit younger I found that It did not take long to get used to pulling heavy weights, but you have to be careful not to overdo it while working up to weight, as sore muscles will set the training back rather quickly.