Are you saying that ash doesn't act better with heat treatment and trapped back?
Nope. I'm saying it's not necessary to make a good bow. Some people insist you HAVE to do it, to make an ash bow work. This is incorrect
There's been quite a few discussions amongst a particular American reenactment group recently about hickory making a good bow. Any good bowyer knows it's an excellent bow wood, but all these reenactors are buying super cheap hickory bows made by terrible bowyers who use a yew cross section, and complain when it takes excessive set and fails. A lot of them consider themselves "experts" and insist that hickory DOES NOT MAKE A GOOD BOW.
It's the same as saying a cherry bow will NOT make a warbow when it just needs the right approach, like all woods. Remember when Ryoon made a poplar warbow? Anyway, I believe we agree - you said it very succinctly with "It is simply a question of scale. Wood is wood and knows nothing of what fancy pants bow it is. The wood simply reacts to strain. If you keep that strain without the woods limits you are within its limits. Take it over and either you will get excessive set or an explosion." This means that black cherry will absolutely make a heavy bow, provided it's treated properly.
I look forward to seeing further attempts, because it's a really good bow wood, so with the right cross section (and tiller - this is important, surprisingly...) it should make a brilliant heavy bow