adding some zip to my selfbow

[scp]

I would just string the bow and tie the string down at the tips with another string, making it shorter, until you like the draw weight. I would make the working string as short as 68 inches.

If it shoots better that way, all you need is a scraper. Just scrape where it does not appear to bend enough. Do that with the bow stringed. I particularly like the way done in a video from Rudder Bows Archery. You can find it on YouTube.

[Loope]

What weight arrows are you shooting?  If they are way too heavy, that could contribute.  If you aren't shooting the proper arrows now, going lighter could help a little.  It won't fix the bow's sluggishness, but could add a little bit of zip.

[mikekeswick]

I would just string the bow and tie the string down at the tips with another string, making it shorter, until you like the draw weight. I would make the working string as short as 68 inches.

If it shoots better that way, all you need is a scraper. Just scrape where it does not appear to bend enough. Do that with the bow stringed. I particularly like the way done in a video from Rudder Bows Archery. You can find it on YouTube.

I wouldn't.......
The tips will become far too stiff and overstrain further the already overstrained inner limbs. That fella at Rudder Bows doesn't know a huge amount from the videos I've watched. No disrespect - everybody has to learn. Be very careful of what advice is given in these videos on youtube I've seen so much nonsense on there that it makes me cry! Remember a little knowledge is dangerous

[Stick Bender]

Tanker I feel your no time thing but it can be done a couple hours a week I usaly get up at 2:00 am on Sunday & work for a couple hours before my family even gets out of bed then go to the range , I am a little obsessive compulsive type( not to many of those around here lol) but I would rather do that then shoot a bow that I wasn't happy with I have made 3 awsome hunnting bows that way the winter most people have more time also , not trying to discourge you from your repair just think you could make a better bow for your self & pointing out your not alone with no time.

[scp]

In this forum there are too many levers of expertise intermingled in one thread. Many opinions of experts are simply too confusing for the beginners. I'm in the school of "keep it simple at all costs." Otherwise I would be making compound bows with modern materials. If just scraping on a stave is too simple for you, you might as well try to learn how to cook perfect boiled rice in several years. After all we are just trying to make a stick to bend evenly.

As for tips, they should be cut of course once you decide on the better length for the bow.

[tankerjohn]

Wow, you guys are awesome!  I totally appreciate the inspiration and willingness to help me out. 

Little Ben, you're right - the clothespin says my draw is 27.5", not 28" like I thought.  Maybe I'm bending my elbow more than last time I measured.  Loope, you're on to something.  I had thought about my arrows.  The ones I'm using now are poplar and probably on the heavy side.  I haven't weighted them; I don't have a grain scale. 

I measured the cross section of the bow - its a 1 3/8" x 13/16".  The crosssection is rectangular, with the belly dead flat and the back slightly rounded.  So not a classic "D" section ELB.  But the bowyer said it needed a flat belly since hazel is weak in compression.  In the picture, I'm holding it the way it was sent to me, with the handle just below center so the arrow pass is right at the center.  Based on what you guys are telling me that the weaker limb should be on top, I'm tempted to flip it over and try to shoot it that way just to see what the difference would be.  But its still too long, right?  And it still has a funky kink in the limb (which, BTW, has about an inch or so of set with the bow unstrung - hadn't really noticed before)

Okay, what do I need to fix this thing?  Where do I start? 

[SLIMBOB]

Hey John.  Last I read I figured you had decided not to mess with it.  Change of heart?

[sleek]

Start by clamping the string an inch at a time down to the limb. Weigh the bow every inch and take a pic every inch. Also measure set. The set should be measured from where you tie your string at. You dont want lots of set. Every inch you do, take a pic, wait for replies on how it looks. You will need to retiller it at a certain point as you shorten it. The weight will go up about 3 pounds every inch you shorten it if i recall.

[scp]

After looking at your photos again, I think your bow is developing a hinge in the lower limb about 1/5 below the handle. So far the set does not appear in the side profile of unstringed bow. If you can full much more than 40 pounds, you should stop using the bow. I would heat treat the problem section and duct tape it up and wait for a couple of day while studying your options. Shortening the bow as is would make the problem worse. I'm no expert at tillering. I hope some experts chime in.

[tankerjohn]

Yeah, I'm going to give it a shot, but slowly and try to work on it when I can.  So I got ahold of the bowyer and he says the bow didn't have the kink in it when he sent it.  He thought maybe it developed the kink when I string it.  That could be the case.  My stringer is too short for the bow, so I was stringing it step-through method, trying to be careful.  Maybe not careful enough.  So is the first order of business straightening out that kink?  Can someone one walk me through or link a thread on how I should heat treat it.  As I said, I do have a heat gun. 

BTW, any of y'all near Washington DC?

[SLIMBOB]

Are you going to shorten it up?  If so I would do that first before heat treating.  Have you decided on the length you want.  Most folks the other day said 68 inches.  I too think that's about right, but I believe you should start small.  Take an inch and a half off each limb and see what that does.  If you need more you can always cut a bit more off, but you cant add it back on.

Why don't you send Del the cat a pm and see what he suggests.  He's an ELB guy and has experience with Hazel.