Something to discuss...

[Marc St Louis]

Like Steve I'm a bit concerned about the riser as well.

[Marc St Louis]

Just one more style to check off Pat! I like to have experience with a lot of styles so when topics come up I have some background and maybe even some insight.

 He dont like being kept in a box! And neither do I

  Pearly,  if I were you, I would either start another riser and laminate it or slice the one you have in half of more and add some 1/8" slats of some dense wood vertically. If you start another riser leave it a square block with only the angles cut . That way it will be strong as heck during the tillering and you can also flip it around to get  the string tracking.

  as for the angle, if making a D/R, I would plot it so that at brace height the limbs will be straight if you know what I mean. You should also consider getting your limbs a bit more uniformly reflexed throughout.  Also, consider getting some smooth on(go all in) Thats what I use now because it is stronger than tb3 and there is no joint creep.  This is all my own opinion and I know that you have a lot more knowledge than I do.
            Here are some pics of a couple I have been working on.

That highly reflexed bow is likely to give you fits.  I've tried 2 or 3 like that and have sworn off them.

[missilemaster]

Just one more style to check off Pat! I like to have experience with a lot of styles so when topics come up I have some background and maybe even some insight.

 He dont like being kept in a box! And neither do I

  Pearly,  if I were you, I would either start another riser and laminate it or slice the one you have in half of more and add some 1/8" slats of some dense wood vertically. If you start another riser leave it a square block with only the angles cut . That way it will be strong as heck during the tillering and you can also flip it around to get  the string tracking.

  as for the angle, if making a D/R, I would plot it so that at brace height the limbs will be straight if you know what I mean. You should also consider getting your limbs a bit more uniformly reflexed throughout.  Also, consider getting some smooth on(go all in) Thats what I use now because it is stronger than tb3 and there is no joint creep.  This is all my own opinion and I know that you have a lot more knowledge than I do.
            Here are some pics of a couple I have been working on.

That highly reflexed bow is likely to give you fits.  I've tried 2 or 3 like that and have sworn off them.

 actually Marc it doesn't look it from the pics but it only has about 3.5" of reflex. I'm taking it sloooooowly!

[mikekeswick]

+1 on the riser. Look at the internal angle of the pad and look at the grain configuration there. Personally i'd cut it into thirds and glue in something tough.

[PEARL DRUMS]

The riser issues is history. I laminated 3 pieces of hickory heartwood together. Ill turn it on edge and cut a new riser out. My limb beds will stay at 2.5", they have to for me to feel good about my limb length. My new riser is shorter, about 12.5" now. So the over all length wont be over 66".

Cody Im using Unibond 800, not Smooth on. I should have, but I don't have a hot box. I just use my dual shop lamp and stand a 2 x 12 on edge to reflect heat back. Works like a charm in just a few hours.

[PEARL DRUMS]

For those of you that have made successful bows like this, what glue did you use to hold the inserts in the riser?

[bow101]

For those of you that have made successful bows like this, what glue did you use to hold the inserts in the riser?

JB weld Epoxy

[PatM]

You can find a number of specialty epoxies that are great for bonding dissimilar materials. Some of the best are used for bonding hardware in either airplanes or boats.
 3M DP 460 is a very good one.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Thanks Pat. Ill spend whatever I have to to make sure they "stick" for good. To be honest, its my biggest concern.

[bubby]

For those of you that have made successful bows like this, what glue did you use to hold the inserts in the

I used a different set up chris, that might be a question best asked on tradgang

[Buckeye Guy]

Pearly
cant you still get inserts that screw in ?
Been a long time since I did them
Never used glue ins that I remember

[koan]

You can get the "Keen" type inserts at any hardware store, their not expensive and have internal and external threads. They come in many different common sizes... Brian

[Springbuck]

Spring buck the osage and hickory together will be almost 3/4" thick, should make for some fades.

 I agree that is plenty.  What I was worried about was that it might be SO thick that by the time you have the fades worked in, you've lost another inch plus of working limb each side, so that effectively shortens them further. But the deflex should help that.

[DC]

I have found that when you are cutting a machine thread into wood if you run the tap through, then soak the area with CA, let dry and then run the tap through again you get a real nice strong thread. May be useful here.

[PatM]

There is a threaded metal insert. I don't think anyone would  trust just threaded wood no matter what it's shored up with.