Something to discuss...

[Springbuck]

How thick are those osage boards that make the limbs? 

I think you have enough length as is, but not any to play with, and the added little lam of ipe might be a good idea.  But if the osage is thick and the hickory backing is added, and you work down fadeouts from the limb pockets out, then the limbs might not really start bending until an inch or two beyond the limb pockets.  That would be correct, in order to relieve the stress at the fulcrum point of the limb pocket, of course, but then, do you really have enough limb lebngth?

It does help that it is deflexed.  In R/D backed bow glue ups I do this very thing, and the deflexed portion of the limb off the handle only bends a little bit.  If you can pull that off, you'll be fine, esp with perfect osage.

Consider putting the ipe UNDER the hickory, like a power wedge version of a power lam?

[PatM]

I was just going to add that a wedge between the backing and belly would work better as SB suggests.

[bubby]

Chris I just saw this, 2 1/2' bed is fine that's what I was using when I was building mine, my limbs just set on the riser without a shoulder, I didn't use a wedge in the attached limb area but it wont hurt, I took a solid walnut riser and cut a arch the length of the riser and put a pc of hickory in but I wasn't worried about it splitting, it look's like you have it worked out to me just some tinkering here and there

[PEARL DRUMS]

Disappointed? How so Pat?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Spring buck the osage and hickory together will be almost 3/4" thick, should make for some fades. Although I think Ill still add the underlays. The limbs are over 1 5/8" wide now. So maybe though they are a tad short, the width will make up for it. I do need to study up on proper ways of installing the threaded insert into the riser. I agree that's probably more important than anything else.

[bubby]

http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/100_2795.jpg
here's how I did mine Chris

[bubby]

Chris the insert thing came up on tradgand a bit ago, 1/2 13 , 27/64 drill is what they said

[bubby]

I like the riser look Chris

[PatM]

Disappointed? How so Pat?

Boards, bolts and I beams..

[PEARL DRUMS]

Just one more style to check off Pat! I like to have experience with a lot of styles so when topics come up I have some background and maybe even some insight.

[bubby]

Just one more style to check off Pat! I like to have experience with a lot of styles so when topics come up I have some background and maybe even some insight.




that's why I did it, built several in fact, sometimes the norm gets a little boring

[bow101]

Chris I just saw this, 2 1/2' bed is fine that's what I was using when I was building mine, my limbs just set on the riser without a shoulder, I didn't use a wedge in the attached limb area but it wont hurt, I took a solid walnut riser and cut a arch the length of the riser and put a pc of hickory in but I wasn't worried about it splitting, it look's like you have it worked out to me just some tinkering here and there

Forgot yours was 2 1/2" I guess the 2 bolts helps with a short limb pad.  Your tiller on that bow is amazing.

[Buckeye Guy]

Chris you are doing fine quit fretting and get it done !
a riser is a riser no need for extra gimmics
I have been doing some dreaming about a way to do a three peice with out the bolts and think I have it worked out in my mind just not the energy for the go at it maybe you can give that a try next!
Have fun!

[missilemaster]

Just one more style to check off Pat! I like to have experience with a lot of styles so when topics come up I have some background and maybe even some insight.

 He dont like being kept in a box! And neither do I

  Pearly,  if I were you, I would either start another riser and laminate it or slice the one you have in half of more and add some 1/8" slats of some dense wood vertically. If you start another riser leave it a square block with only the angles cut . That way it will be strong as heck during the tillering and you can also flip it around to get  the string tracking.

  as for the angle, if making a D/R, I would plot it so that at brace height the limbs will be straight if you know what I mean. You should also consider getting your limbs a bit more uniformly reflexed throughout.  Also, consider getting some smooth on(go all in) Thats what I use now because it is stronger than tb3 and there is no joint creep.  This is all my own opinion and I know that you have a lot more knowledge than I do.
            Here are some pics of a couple I have been working on.

[bubby]

Thanks 101