Profiling bows without a bandsaw?

[Bitterguy]

I am almost done with my red oak board bow and its about to (atleast i hope) get warm up here soon. Which means that I will take rps up on his generous offer on showing me how to pick and cut a sappling. My question is, once that sappling gets seasoned how should I go about cutting it? For my parrallel board bow I just clamped it down and used a handheld circular saw. Would that work on a stave and/or a differnet design?

As always,
thanks in advance

[turtle]

Hatchet, drawknife and rasp.

[George Tsoukalas]

I don't own a bow grade bandsaw. I advise beginners not to use power until bow #6. Whitewoods like oak and hickory are better for sapling bows since you don't have to chase a heartwood ring. For a sapling bow, cut a piece 2-3 inches in diameter. Leave it 2-3 inches longer than you would with a full stave bow. Be sure you have sealed the ends. Hold it like you are going to string it to see how it feels. See if it twists.  If there are knots I prefer to have them on the back so I can deal with them. See how the string will fall on the handle. Choose the best part for the back. In the middle of the stave draw a line and measure 2 inches on either side for the handle area in the exact center. At the nock end measure down a 1/2 inch. With a magic marker, draw 2 lines to delineate back from front. Remove wood with a hatchet. In a few days remove the bark. If you wait until spring to cut it will pop off easily. Measure down 1/2 inch from the nock end. Draw a diagonal line to the handle area.  Remove wood with hatchet. At this time you can shift to a draw knife and begin to floor tiller. Let the wood bend an inch or 2. It will dry faster. Put it aside near a heat source and let it dry. Jawge

[Joec123able]

Don't use a bandsaw on a bow at all only hand tools !!

[dwardo]

I am in the hand-tools only camp. Not saying power tools are bad for those that can use them but my mind has a tendency to wander and that's how you lose fingers 

You would be surprised how quickly you can remove wood with a drawknife. Same goes for my billhook. Not only is it cheaper and more natural but it also helps to keep my ever growing beer gut in check. Even more so felling, splitting and lugging all the timber miles back to the car.

[Bitterguy]

The only thing I seem to be missing (that i cant just run up to home depot and buy in like 2 seconds) is a drawknife. I tend to see what appears to be the same draw knife all over this forum. Where do you guys get you draw knives?

[dwardo]

The only thing I seem to be missing (that i cant just run up to home depot and buy in like 2 seconds) is a drawknife. I tend to see what appears to be the same draw knife all over this forum. Where do you guys get you draw knives?

My draw knife is near a hundred years old and probably my most cherished wood working tool. Next to my axe and billhook.
There were plenty on ebay last time i checked. Mine was given to me by a friend whose father had it since his apprenticeship

[Pat B]

I think most folks here get their draw knives from "antique" shops, garage sales or flea markets. You might post on the "Trading Post" and see if someone might have an extra one to trade.
  You can do it all with a rasp and scraper if necessary.

[Joec123able]

Yea you need a drawknife. When I build bows the two tools I use to make almost the whole bow is usually the drawknife and rasp . A rasp is really nice to have doesn't take wood off to fast or to slow

[Slackbunny]

What others have said is good info although I really like to use a bandsaw to get it down to near net shape. But I always cut it large then bring it down with hand tools. 

[toomanyknots]

I don't even know how to profile a bow with a bandsaw, just cause alot of staves I work I will just leave in the propeller twist and character and all that. Maybe make small cuts hear and there until you get it where you want it? I am new to the powertool world actually. I will say one thing, don't ever buy a 10" bandsaw if you plan on using it.  I'm about to get me something better... I think I will ask everyones advice before I throw down any money though...

EDIT: And yes I second the "second hand" draw knife thing. A member on here was kind enough to just randomly send me a draw knife in the mail one day! (Thank ya again Critterville / Ciprano!  )  I have to say it looks nice and old, but man it is one heck of a quality knife. I haven't sharpened it once and have used it for months, and it is still nice and sharp. I don't know why, but all the brand new blade related items I buy end up going dull quicker and quicker (looking at you cheap cabinet scrappers, ).

[okie64]

Pawn shops and antique stores are good places to find draw knives. The older the better as long as the blade isnt all pitted up. I bought a new one a couple of years ago and the blade sucks. It dulls out real quick when working osage. My favorite knife is a curved blade palmer brothers that I foun at pawn shop, it had the wingnuts and swivel handles but I welded the handles in place right where I wanted them. It gets more use than any other tool in my shop.

[Zion]

Who needs a bandsaw. You can use stone tools if you want, all of it's efficient.

[Del the cat]

Blimey!
The profile is the easy bit, doesn't take a lot of work.
It's working down the thickness that's the hard bit.
Like the guys have already said drawknife, axe, spokeshave for when it's gertting close. Rasp if it's tearing.
Del

[bushboy]

Belt and disc grinder,the disc really hogs of wood,make a lot of dust though!