Tapering the ends for the nocks

[SimonUK]

Hi Guys

When you taper the ends of the bow for the nocks, do you angle the taper so that one edge follows the single growth ring of the back? Or do you taper it symetrically like when you taper an arrow shaft ready for the arrowhead? Hope you know what I mean. It's for a yew bow I'm making.

Thanks

Simon

[Kviljo]

On the MR bows the taper is only on the sides and belly, so the nocks must have been pointing slightly forward.

[SimonUK]

great stuff kviljo ...thanks

[Rod]

Kviljo appears to be confusing tillering taper with taper of the nock "cone". Generally the nock cone is quite symmetrical, though it may on some examples be slightly forward in angle.
Rod.

[SimonUK]

Ah, thanks Rod. Yesterday the bow in question developed an enormous fret towards the end of tillering  so it's all academic now. Maybe I'll put nocks on my next ash bow.

[Rod]

Sometimes a fret can be sanded out if caught earkly enough, but this is less likely to be succesful if the fret is caused by uneven tiller or a weakness in the wood.
I have cured a fret caused by a ding or crease in the belly by doing this, but it must be caught early whilst the fret is still shallow.
Rod.

[SimonUK]

This one is very deep. In fact the whole belly has slid sideways on itself. I think it happened because there was a crack in the side of the belly, plus a bit of uneven tillering.

So frustrating after all that time spent chasing a ring on the back - if only that could be the last part of the job.

[duffontap]

Save the good limb so you can join it to another billet.   

[SimonUK]

Splicing... that's one thing I haven't tried. Maybe next year.

I've already started on another ash bow. I'm sure with a high enough draw weight I'll get a reasonable performance from ash.

[Rod]

That was a traditional form of "apprentice" bow, taking two dissimilar halves and making one bow of them...
Rod.