Bend limbs to match handle or cut handle to match limbs?

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I roughed out an odd blank from what was a very straight stave. The picture is a little blurry, but in it you can see that the limbs are essentially on the same plane but the handle is angling between them. I can hear correct to make the limbs be inline with the back of te handle. Or I can shape the belly of the handle so when pushed on the limbs look and act flat to the handle. And just leave the back at an angle.

The stave started out looking straight with no twist of wonk. But as I chased a ring, more and more character started to show. So that it roller coasters a but on the side profile with a slightly snaky front profile. right now the tips seem to line up through te handle fine. I'm leaning towards doing some correcting to cut back on how sharp the angle is, but still leave a bit there. Any input on this plan? I still have a good bit of time before I work on it again. The wood cut like it was still a bit green. So I'm leaving it inside a couple weeks to dry out a bit more.

Thanks for the input,
Kyle

[Pat B]

Kyle, what kind of wood is it?
 It looks like the limb at the top in the pic and the handle line up well but the other limb has a hoop-tee-do at the fade area . I would put it on a reflex form and heat and clamp it so both limbs come of the handle the same. That will make tillering easier. Be sure the back and ends are sealed before heating it. Now, that it is still green would be a good time to make these changes. I'd just leave it in the form until you are(and it is) ready to work then tiller away.

[BowEd]

Mo....I just got done straightening out a winged elm that at the stave stage and even the roughed out stage full width same thickness yet it still warped & propellered all to heck drying out in the house.Next time I do a hurry up bow from winged elm I'll clamp it down to keep it straight.
Just my 2 cents.Don't know what kind of wood you got there.I've never seen hickory do that or even osage but I'm sure there are cases that have yet though.

[bradsmith2010]

yes like Beadman said, clamp it if its still a bit green,,
maybe even put a bit of pressure on it to align it  bit, if the clamps get loose,, put a bit more pressure,,

[Mo_coon-catcher]

It's black locust that had been split in a barn loft for about a year and a half now. So it's not really green, green. But it cut like it wasn't wuite dry yet. From the same batch of staves I had one that cracked when heated and one that heated fine without cracking. Based off the lines on the floor, if I line up the handle, the top tip is reflexed about 3" and the bottom limb deflexes the same amount. The handle also makes things wierd by being dished in the back about 3/8". Beasman, just like you with hixjory and osage, I've never had black locust shift much when drying inside. Typically it'll crack if dried too quickly. It's been in the house about a week now and it hasn't cracked or split. So it's probably in the clear now. I think I'll do what you all suggested and make the bottom match the top. I might pull out a bit of the reflex, I feel like 3" might be a bit much for a 1 5/8" wide molle.

Thanks,
Kyle

[BowEd]

Yea just get it matched as well as you can.It'll make a bow with a little character yet no doubt.It might be dry enough to heat without cracking.That's your call.You should'nt need to wait too long to be dry that's for sure.Good luck.

[sleek]

Kyle, I woyld without a doubt, deflex the upper limb to match the angle of the the lower, then recurve the tips to bring the nocks above the handle by an inch.  If you lool at my bow i titled slightly ticked, thats what I had to work with and it is my favorite bow. Quick one too. I will see if I can find the thread and post the link.

[sleek]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,53940.0.html

Here you go. I am actually very eager to see you make a bow like this. Staves like what you have there are gold. Please give this one some consideration. It may turn out to be the fastest sweetest bow you ever made. Lebhuntfish also made one like this ( i copied him.... kinda ) and it is his fastest to date as well, its named Fury, and i will try to find that link also.

[sleek]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,53732.0.html

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I remember those bows sleek, I maye do that to this one. It's already roughed out as a molle, so I'llhave to keep the curves shallow enough to keep the string off the limbs. But that might make it a bit smoother if I put the reflex into the levers sort of like long statics. I think I'll try that.

Kyle

[sleek]

Just bring the tios uo to tje point rhe string almost touches at brace. As a molly, this bow should scream! I am excited!!!

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I finally got it bent today. The wood lost about 10g while being inside. Te way I have the clamps, as I pulled the reflex side into a deflex, it pulled out some of the deflex in the otherside to make them more even. I'm going to let the wood cool a by then warm the. Back up to help lock in the bend. Next step is to reflex the levers. I think it'll be a close match in side profile to 'the fury'. 

Kyle

[bradsmith2010]

that looking good,, nice bow in the making

[Dances with squirrels]

Not saying I would do every bow this way, but I would have just made the bow as-is. Level the handle in the tillering tree, time/tiller the limbs, just like I do with any other bow. It would have looked all cattywhompus at brace and full draw but would have behaved nicely. I like unique bows that git er done.

[sleek]

This has me excited. Lookin good Kyle.