Bend limbs to match handle or cut handle to match limbs?

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I'll have to hit the fades and levers again. All the movement I put in the fades didn't stay, but it's a start. Same with reflexing the levers. Being that thick I didn't want to move it all at once, plus that's all the room in the form I had. The next heating I'll ahin the form to get a bit more reflex. Hopefully most of the curve stays in the levers. I'll give it an hour or so to cool, then hit the other one.

Kyle

[sleek]

Boil it. Tjen once on the form, hit with dry heat to cook and set that curve in permanent. Watch for checks though.

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I got a little more curve on the levers and a bit more deflex in the one limb. The next bend will be to try and pull some more deflex out of the other limb without seperating growth rings. Then to hope everything is still in line.

Kyle

[sleek]

That is looking exactly like you want it look

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I think I'll have both sides pretty well evened up after it comes after the form this last time. It's a little more gentle in the curves thatn I hoped to et out of it. But I hink I'll be happy when it's all said and done. I think yge milder curves on the levers will help keep them stabil. That's my biggest worry if I pushed them too far. I can probably bend them a bit further if need be. But it should be about 1" reflex when all done.

Kyle

[sleek]

Outstanding.  Now, something you will notice is with deflexed fades, the string has a leveage advantage on the limbs at brace. This requires the limbd to have more mass than usual to maintain string tensiin, which is a BIG plus when it comest to high stress designs. More working mass is good in energy storage.

[lebhuntfish]

I would concentrate a little more reflex in the mid limb section.  Then flip the tips back another couple of inches. 
Remember when tillering you need to keep those fades fairly stiff.  You only want them to bend a little at full draw.  Most of your Bending section will be in the mid limb area. Alow you tips to start opening just slightly about 3 inches before full draw.  If you tiller it this way it will scream!
That is exactly how I tillered "The Fury"!
Here is what I was talking about with the profile. 



This is the bow we made nonose last year and gave to him at mojam. 

Patrick

[sleek]

How wide is that stave? How long is the working section?

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I was wondering about putting some reflex into the midlimb, so essentially at the last half of the working portion and make it flow with the reflex in te levers as much as I can. I'm pretty sure I have the working portion 1 5/8" at the fades, 1 1/2" at mid limb and 1 1/4" at the fades to the levers. The levers start are 3/4" for now. I plan to taper them from 1/2" wode down to 1/4-3/8". I went for a 60/40 ratio so I think the working portion is about 15-16". I'll measure for sure when I get home.

Kyle

[lebhuntfish]

That sounds about right Kyle. Cant wait to see it at mojam!

Patrick

[Mo_coon-catcher]

The limbs are 29" wth the working sections being 17.5". The widths were what I thought.
I like how the right limb looks, in fine with how the left is but it could be bent more out towards the lever. I guess o didn't have my floor tiller good enough to arch the wood into shape: I can always fix that later on te second heat treat as I get close to final tiller. It's probably way over poundage right now.

Kyle

[lebhuntfish]

Dosent look too bad bud.  I think, if you could get a little more reflex between the block and your c clamp you would be spot on! It should be a screamer! Can't wait to see what you get out of it!

Patrick

[Mo_coon-catcher]

Here's how it popped off the form. It looks like around 1" of reflex. So it should end up about even if everything goes right, if I don't do any more tweaking.

Kyle

[lebhuntfish]

Not to bad at all!
I would still like to see a little more reflex in the actual working section of the limbs.  All of the reflex I actually see is in your static levers.

Patrick

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I'll get it bending a bit. Once it gets back to about a 20" draw, I think I'll be able to make the curves stay where I want them. The limbs are still about 1/2" thick on average and should thin down to about 3/8" or a little less when done tillering. I'll use the same clamp, block setup, but use taller blocks midlimb to get more curve in the limbs. I'll try to bring the fades back a bit more to keep the tips from getting too far infront of the handle.

Kyle