Flintknapping Video Cut Tine Tip Antler Flaking

[AncientTech]

This video is currently going around the world, through Facebook.  I am getting a lot of feedback from people over in Europe.  A German person pointed out that the technique shown here was shown on an old black and white clip from the Amazon jungle.  According to the individual, the arrowhead making process was exactly the same, in the clip.  I never showed this to anyone, before.

Not to be quarrelsome but this video you linked to you stated was exactly the same as an old black and white clip from the Amazon. If it is exactly the same instead of modifying the technique (switching to a hafted  antler hammer) why not stick with it and become more proficient?

I did not speak with the German.  But, I believe that he meant that the indian was making an arrowhead in exactly the SAME WAY.  As you can see, this is a distinct process.  He did not say that the tools are "exactly" identical to my tools.  And, even if he did say that, it does not detract from the fact that there is plenty of evidence to support that Native Americans used specialized flintnapping hammers - made from antler - used in conjunction with indirect percussion flintknapping processes.   

Also, I do not know for a fact that the hammer will be better, because I have not yet tested it.  But, I do need a sort of re-bounding blow, when there is some play in the process, to get a good flaking effect.  And, after watching my own video, I concluded that I may be able to create a better type of blow, while using a small antler mallet, not unlike the the antler mallets that have been recovered from archaeological sites, for the last hundred years.

I hope this makes things clearer.





   

[Ghost Knapper]

Makes sense. Can you put some links to the specialized flintknapping hammers? I have never come across any archaeological evidence for the antler mallets, but then again I haven't looked that hard.

[nclonghunter]

I wonder how many will mash a finger this week trying this  . Thanks for posting Ben. I believe several references I read have mentioned holding the point in a piece of leather to protect the hand. I wonder if it also aids in holding the point more firmly in the grip. I will be giving it a try also...

Here is an interesting clip on youtube of a similar technique. I mention similar because it looks like he is striking the end rather than in the palm:     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfQUFERvPxI

[Hummingbird Point]

Also, I do not know for a fact that the hammer will be better, because I have not yet tested it.  But, I do need a sort of re-bounding blow, when there is some play in the process, to get a good flaking effect.  And, after watching my own video, I concluded that I may be able to create a better type of blow, while using a small antler mallet, not unlike the the antler mallets that have been recovered from archaeological sites, for the last hundred years.

Ben,
 
For the small tine horizontal punching I have been alternately using an elk hammer and a dogwood hammer, both about 1.25" diameter on a 10",fairly lightweight handle.  They do seem to work better than a baton, more power, more accuracy and easier to get the rhyme going, at least for me.  I haven't noticed any difference between the antler and the wood on how the flakes run, which isn't to say there isn't one, just that I haven't picked up on it.  So any way, I think it is worth your time to try it.

Keith





   
[/quote]

[AncientTech]

Makes sense. Can you put some links to the specialized flintknapping hammers? I have never come across any archaeological evidence for the antler mallets, but then again I haven't looked that hard.

You can probably find them by searching museum collections, online.  The hammers frequently have a hole drilled through the head.  My understanding is that there was another hole in the end of the handle.  The head was placed on top of the handle, and then lashed through two holes.

Here is where my deductive reasoning kicks in.  If antler hammers that are struck on sharp flint edges show cuts, chewing, and other such wear, but antler hammers that are only used to strike other pieces of antler do not show any such markings, and the antler hammers that are known from archaeological contexts, do not show any such marking, then shouldn't we be able to hypothetically rule out the direct use on flint?  And, isn't there some possibility that such hammers could have been used on other known flintknapping tools, such as antler flakers?

So, that is how I look at the subject.  If my theory is right, then all of these antler hammers that go back to the advent of the archaic era, and that do not show any harsh markings, may actually be indirect evidence of sophisticated indirect percussion flintknapping practices.  Of course, I am not saying that "it was", because I was not there.  But, if my theory is correct then it could revolutionize how antler flakers are studied.

[AncientTech]

I wonder how many will mash a finger this week trying this  . Thanks for posting Ben. I believe several references I read have mentioned holding the point in a piece of leather to protect the hand. I wonder if it also aids in holding the point more firmly in the grip. I will be giving it a try also...

Here is an interesting clip on youtube of a similar technique. I mention similar because it looks like he is striking the end rather than in the palm:     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfQUFERvPxI

The guy that owns the Youtube account, that KnapYucatan guy, he is just awesome.  Oh, wait a minute, that is me!!!  Ha ha!  You found my Youtube account.

As for the leather, you do not always need to hold the point super firmly.  I have made more hammerstone made overshots then I can remember.  But, I do not think that I am gripping the stone that hard, even when full overshot is made.

Also, I do not know what happens when a break is formed.  I can feel things happening in the process.  And, I can guide things.  But, I don't know how it all works.  I just see the effects.  And, I learned to control some of those effects to some degree, by a feeling, and by special knowledge.  But, that does not mean that I know what is happening.  Maybe there are components of the break process that I cannot feel, and do not even know about. 

One of the things that I have wondered is whether the stone needs to be able to vibrate when struck.  And, if so, does over-immobilization impede vibration?  And, could this be why a heavily gripped stone might be harder to flake than a more lightly gripped stone?  I don't know, and I will not pretend to know.  But, someone might know.

That being said, you should hold the points with leather if you are doing heavy hammerstone work.  The truth is that a large flake can dislodge, and clip a finger tip, as it is flying away from your hand.  And, if it weighs enough, and is traveling at a very high rate of speed, and it has a sharp edge, it could seriously injure your finger, or finger tip.  On at least one occasion, I have had a flake come off, only to catch a finger tip, and put a cut so large in my finger that I thought I would need stiches (or at least Super Glue).



 

   

[AncientTech]

Also, I do not know for a fact that the hammer will be better, because I have not yet tested it.  But, I do need a sort of re-bounding blow, when there is some play in the process, to get a good flaking effect.  And, after watching my own video, I concluded that I may be able to create a better type of blow, while using a small antler mallet, not unlike the the antler mallets that have been recovered from archaeological sites, for the last hundred years.

Ben,
 
For the small tine horizontal punching I have been alternately using an elk hammer and a dogwood hammer, both about 1.25" diameter on a 10",fairly lightweight handle.  They do seem to work better than a baton, more power, more accuracy and easier to get the rhyme going, at least for me.  I haven't noticed any difference between the antler and the wood on how the flakes run, which isn't to say there isn't one, just that I haven't picked up on it.  So any way, I think it is worth your time to try it.

Keith





   

[/quote]

Very interesting Keith!  So, you don't see a difference in how the flakes run.  Do you ever see a difference in flake scar qualities?  Smooth versus rippled?  Also, here is a trade secret from the late Karok knapper, Theodore Orcutt.  If you put the tip of your antler flaker in a fire, then it will probably produce a more rippled flake scar.  The late Philip Churchill offered the opinion that the heat drives out the moisture, thus making the antler tip harder.  This is something that you may want to check into.  Orcutt used this technique of heating his flakers whenever he wanted the flake scars to show a type of rippling seen in some of the old points, from prehistoric times. 

[Hummingbird Point]

Ben,

The only time I got noticable rippling was when I first started with horizontal punches and it was with the punch I made from a 1" diameter whitetail base.  I suspect the rippling was caused by the hardness of the antler as you suggest, and I'm not getting it now since that tool has worn down about an inch into softer antler.  The only time I use heat it on my notching tool, which I will often run a lighter flame over for a few seconds after each time it is redressed.  No doubt, though that even just humidity in the air can noticably make antler a little "gummy" which messes up performance.  I have no doubt that old timers always had a small fire going when knapping, even on the hottest days and periodically snugged their tools up next to it.

Any one interested in making hammers, below is a link to how I do it.  I also do my wood hammers (which are for quartzite knapping) the same way.  (Hope you don't mind, Ben):

http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/60533/Antler-hammers

Keith

[JackCrafty]

Interesting horizontal punch technique.