Stoneheads and Grain Weight

[nlester]

If you have smaller stone points and larger stone points and both fly well from the shafts they are on, which are better to hunt with?  Speed vs. weight is the question??  I'm sure this has been a topic of discussion on here before, but I couldn't find anything about stone.  I'm sure its on here somewhere though.  Small points and shaft total around low 500's in grain and the bigger points and shafts are upper 500's to 600.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.   

[TRACY]

Mine tend to be 600 gr total give or take 50gr. Cane and stone point 7/8 wide by 2.5" long roughly. As long as they shoot well I'm good with the variance from arrow to arrow. Hope that helps. Assuming were talking about taking deer and up.

Tracy

[sharpend60]

Heavier arrows will penitrate better.
If I were gonna hunt with your set up, I'd go heavier. Heavier is also quieter.
That is assuming you shoot both equally well...

Fact of the matter is if you hit vitals, your good to go.

I dont see a differance between, stone, steel or lead in that regard.

[nlester]

They all shoot well.  Probably just put them all in the quiver and see what happens.  Thanks for the advice. 

[crooketarrow]

  Forget about the weight hit the deer. GAINS ONLY MATTER WITH HIGHT SPEED COMPOUNDS at longer distances. With slow self bows the weight dos'nt matter nearly as much. If you keep it close (20 OR UNDER 20) it would have to a lot a weight difference to see or tell out of a slow self bow. I DON'T KNOW ANYONE THAT SHOOTS GOOD ENOUGH THAT IT WOULD MATER EXSPECIALLY AT A CLOSE DEER. If it shoots good out of your bow I use it.

[half eye]

I am kinda with crooket on this one.....over the years I've shot arrows from the 500 up to 700 (based on the type of wood) at 20 and under I've had 'em stay in and blow right through. Shot placement and sharp heads are the key. If I had to say, the 500's should be plenty if ya hit where your lookin.

Like "c" said shoot what ya hit good with
rich

[Pat B]

Either should work just fine for deer. The smaller head on the lighter arrow and a bigger head on a heavier arrow should equal out  if you do your part. You should get better penetration from the smaller head and 500gr is plenty of grain weight. The larger point would probably not penetrate as well but the extra weight should help that out.
 My quiver has different arrows(hill cane, sourwood shoots and poplar shafts, both tapered and parrallel) ranging from the high 400grs to the high 600grs. At 20 yards or less I can put any of these arrows in the kill zone of a deer(speaking of targets of course) but generally I have one arrow that I feel most confident in so that one is #1 in my quiver. Confidence in your set up and the ability to perforn under pressure are the most important things related to your arrows and yourself. Choose the arrow that you feel the most confident in and make that #1.

[Ryan_Gill_HuntPrimitive]

I have shot deer with both. I have always gotten better penetration with a smaller head. 75 grains and less. Shot a complete pass through last week with a 550 grain cane arrow. the point was 75 grains. I have shot some deer with larger points and not gotten out both sides, the smaller points have always gotten full penetration for me.  I choose less resistance over increased weight.  I also like hunting with hardwoods where i can get 600-700 gr arrows with out a point, then I can use a little 40 gainer on it if i want and that gets great penetration should I hit extra bone.  some folks will argue that their huge points are the best...  all i can say is, I have killed 5 deer and a hog with stone in the last 3 seasons.  so six big game kills with stone. 
4 smaller points- all equaled pass through's
2 larger points-  neither got out the other side
so  for me      i choose a smaller point, really sharp on a heavy arrow


and +1  on what Pat said.   

[nlester]

Thanks for all the info.  I sure appreciate it.  Everyone had some real valid points

[crooketarrow]

  My make all my points long and skinny around 2 2 1/4 by 78's to a inch. You have a lot of tip breakage but thats exspected with those long points. Ofcorse it's hard to make a matching set of stone points at least it is for me. But like I said it reall dos'nt matter a whole lot.
  I mainly us trade points but always keep a stone point or 2 in my quive for doe's. But every couple years I'll use stone points from the start. I do use stone points alot for turkeys.