2012 PA Bow Trade - Works In Progress

[Bevan R.]

After a week of battling a gout attack, I got to spend some time in the shop. Made some progress...
Working on multiple bows (all about the same length) for the trade. Still allot of wood to take off. Both will be sinewed with elk and 'skinned' of some type.
Currently  the pyramid is 58" long. The other is 60" but will be cut down.
By the way, I have to say I really like the Shinto Saw/Rasp.
As you can see, chasing a ring on the pyramid was a hoot.

[PEARL DRUMS]

The Shinto is a mean machine Bevan! That pyramid would have a nightmare to chase. I cant even see them.

[Bevan R.]

Used one of my 'mini' drawknives and cabnet scraper.

[Keenan]

Those are looking great Bevan.
 
Here is a pica of one of the trade bows, Vine maple snake,

And this one is Cascara after a little heat correcting.

[Weylin]

Everybody's bows are looking awesome! I'd be thrilled to get any of them. Here are a few pics of my original stave and some close ups that I have a question about. I'm making a Strunk-style yew longbow from a large branch.




I have the stave reduced down to rough bow dimensions now and I've noticed an odd growth ring pattern. I'm sure it's due to the nature of the branch, the 'center' of the branch was far to one side and because it was a less than ideal piece of wood I had very little choice about which side of the branch to take the bow from. So the piece that became the bow was not symmetrically aligned with the pattern of growth rings. Is this going to be a problem for me? Will it cause twisting or is it no big deal? If it is a problem is there anything I can do about it. The first picture is the end of the stave showing the growth ring pattern and the other pics are showing how the belly looks.

[Bevan R.]

Hey Keenan,
You have any 'reaction' to working down that cascara?

[gstoneberg]

Nice work on the bows guys.  Bevan, that's some impressive ring chasing bud.  Cool bows Keenan.  I didn't realize I was supposed to be doing 2 bows, I'm gonna have to get on the stick.  I had hoped to have pictures of mine on the tillering tree, but it has enough reflex that it is fighting me when I try to string it.  Have had a couple violent string reversals.  I'm gonna have to get it bending further on the long string before I can get the short string on it.  O well, there's always tomorrow for pictures.

I'm not a yew guy Weylin so I don't know.  Hopefully somebody can help you.  Good luck.

George

[Pat B]

  She's now out to 55#@26" Still got a bit to go.   I'm adding cowhorn tip overlays tonight should have the tips shaped tomorrow ands I will begin shooting her in.

[Bevan R.]

Looking real good (as always) Pat.

[Keenan]

Looking mighty fine Pat.

George, Only one bow for PA, I also entered the Tradgang bow trade. that is why I'm working on two trade bows.

Weylin,  That might be a challenge bud.  That is why I always try to make sure I am using the top of the branch. The heart always lays close to the top and that is where your best tension wood is. Tight rings on top and thicker rings on the botton. So when you cut a stave out of the side you are going to have one side with tight ringed and the other not. It's still possible to get a good bow but you will fight grain run offs. If you still have the rest of the stave your better stave may be the part just above your thumb in the first pic. Looks like I see the heart right there.  Even if there are some knots they are workable with yew.

[Weylin]

Thanks for the advice Keenan. Unfortunately that is all there is of the branch. It wasn't just a matter of knots. If it had been I would have done it exactly like you said. There were patches where there was no bark or sapwood so that the heartwood was exposed to the elements and somewhat decayed. Those were the areas that I had to avoid when I laid out the bow on the stave. So given that this is all that I have to work with what do I need to do to make this bow work? Should I proceed as normal with my width and thickness tapers or do I need to make some sort of special accommodations for the grain run off? Is there a particular cross-section that would be more helpful given this issue, a D section like an ELB or a flatter belly? Maybe I should make my own post for this so I'm not clogging up the trade bow post...

[Keenan]

Weylin, Go ahead and get the bark off and slightly thin the sap wood on the thicker edge. You can just feather the sapwood rings out along the edge yew will take that no problem. That will keep you the same on sapwood heart wood ratios on each side of the stave.  A flatbow limb design will get you closer to the surface and flatter running grain instead of edge grain effect. Shoot for a very squashed oval limb profile with a slightly rounded belly. this will help with the run off as well. Don't hestitate to ask if needed.

[loefflerchuck]

First pic is the final two choices. #1 winner is a perfectly strait split juniper with a bit of wave to it. Good amount of natural reflex. Will be cutting this one down a bit before backing. The last picture is my recurve method. After 20 some ot years I still use hand tools and getto bending methods.

[Keenan]

 Great looking piece of juniper

[Elktracker]

Great bows in the works guys! Keenan I like that VM snake that is awsome!



Here is my Cascara swap bow I got her braced but its still pretty heavy so after I get the rawhide on her I should have plenty of room to get the tiller right   I have a Vine Maple roughed and ready if im not happy with this one. Now onto the rawhide backing when I get a chance.
unbraced

braced




Josh