Tiller Advise IPE/Boo

[bigcountry]

Ok, I have moved to a tiller tree.  Yes, I do exercise by hand. 

From my point of view, I need to get more bending from the fades out 4"-6", and the left limb is a tad stronger.   Lets hear your opinions

But I wonder if I should mess with the tips.  She is 52# at 24", and here she is at 24".  I am going for 55-60lbs.

[Pat B]

It does look like you need to get it bending near the fades on both limbs. Watch your string angle at the tips. She's gonna start stacking on you. Look at the tip/string angle.

[bigcountry]

It does look like you need to get it bending near the fades on both limbs. Watch your string angle at the tips. She's gonna start stacking on you. Look at the tip/string angle.

What should I do about the string angle?  Should I not mess with the tips?

She is 68" long.

[Aosda]

Big Country,  here's a link to Eric Krewson's tillering gizmo.  It helps to get your limbs bending even.  From what I see the fades are a little stiff and it looks like the out third towards the tips too.  Eric posted the link for me on my first bow, the second turned out a lot better. 

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001047

Hope it helps.  Good luck with the rest of the build.

[bigcountry]

Oh yea, I use the gizmo.  The limbs match according to the gizmo up unto 8" from the tips and 5" from the fades.  Just wanted another set of eyes.  I just made the tiller tree tonight and first time I have looked at the bow at 24".  I have been using a stick at 16" up until now.

[DanaM]

Without an unbraced and front view profile picture its tough to say, also what draw length are you aiming for and how long is the bow ?
Other than that I have to agree get the inner limbs bending some more.

[n2everythg]

what everyone else said and yea leave the tips alone.
how long a draw you shooting for?
N2

[bigcountry]

Shooting for 55@29".  This is around 52@24".   The bow is 68" NTN.  6" handle, 2" fades. 

I will keep you guys updated.  My stupid digital camera went out, and I am stuck with a crappy phone camera.

Whats amazing is, you can sit there behind a tiller tree.  Pull up to 24" and take a quick picture, let it down.  Pull up again and take a quick glance, and swear everything looks ok, come and look at the pictures, and totally different view.

[Aosda]

68/2=34, 34-4(handle & fades)=30, 30-8(tips)=22, 22-5(out from fade)= 17.  So you're trying to get a 29" draw from 17" working limbs.  Sounds like you need more of the limb bending and doing some work.  2*17=34", only half of the wood is actually working and the other half static.

[bigcountry]

68/2=34, 34-4(handle & fades)=30, 30-8(tips)=22, 22-5(out from fade)= 17.  So you're trying to get a 29" draw from 17" working limbs.  Sounds like you need more of the limb bending and doing some work.  2*17=34", only half of the wood is actually working and the other half static.

Thats why I am tillering the bow and not drawn past 20" on my tiller stick and only pulled to 24" on the tree this time.  I am not ready to draw to 29" right now.

[markinengland]

On a bow like this I find it really helpfull to run a stick (sometimes called a walky-talky stick) along the belly when the bow is braced. Any simple bit straight edged wood about 6 inches long will do. Look for the gap between the belly and stick. An even tiller will give an even gap. Where the arc of the gap increases the bow is weak, where the arc diminishes it is strong.
This can reaally help you see the tiller, the weak and strong parts. A little bit of wood removal with an Ipe/Boo bow goes a long way so scrape a little, exercise well and then use the stick again.
Hope this helps,
Mark in England

[bigcountry]

Ok, I haven't worked on this bow for a few months.  I added some Silk thread wraps to every node.  I took the nodes down too much and on two of them they started lifting a splinter.  Then after I shot it 100 times, I started noticing a gap starting to form at the intersection of the power lam and fades and boo.  So I filled with super glue and wrapped with sinew. 

Frank Bullet sent me some elk sinew, and I really apprecate it. 

So after all this, I think I have named the bow "damage" or "split and glue" because I have wraps and sinew everywhere.  I went crazy on teh wraps, not all the nodes needed it.

Ok, here's my question.  She is at 56lbs at28".  But feels like its stacking for some reason. Its the hardest 55lbs I ever pulled.  Slight hand shock.  But its blazing fast.

Is this because my tips are stiffer?  Since I have the wraps, I can't do much tillering.  But I can loosen up the top limb at the 12" from the tips.  I have an almost even tiller.  But would rather some positive tiller.

Should I loosen up the tips?

[mullet]

 Show us a picture of the back. How wide is the last 1/3 of the limb? If it is thick and wide, take some off the sides .

[bigcountry]

Tips are real narrow.  It goes from 1.2" at the fade to 3/8" or less at the tips.    Its not the handshock I mind, because its more like a slight vibration.  You could shoot open handed and it wouldnt' fliy out of your hand.  What I am not so sure of is the tiller.   I have also rounded the last 8".  The rest of the limb is flat bellied.

[mullet]

 When I finish the last 8"s , I trap the boo. Still leave the belly a little wider, but taper it toward the back, almost like Siya's.