81
Bows / Re: Question on tillering a snake bow?
« Last post by Selfbowman on November 05, 2025, 09:06:45 am »Check out the two growth rings on the end of the blank! Not my most favorable choice but we will see what comes from it.
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82
Bows / Re: Question on tillering a snake bow?
« Last post by Selfbowman on November 05, 2025, 07:59:10 am »This tillering method would welcome Eric’s tillering gizmo.
83
Bows / Re: Question on tillering a snake bow?
« Last post by Selfbowman on November 05, 2025, 07:55:10 am »Ok here is a pic to try to explain what I’m saying. The top of the T is the ticker part of the limb and the bottom of the T is thinner. A straight line all the way across the limb would be the same thickness all the way across the limb. The blue line represents the center of the limb.
84
Bows / Osage knot questions
« Last post by Fox on November 05, 2025, 12:27:38 am »Getting back in the saddle again after not making bows for a couple years, and wondering about some knots. Making this one for my girlfriend and don't want it to blow up on her. Did I leave enough material on these funny knots or should I go down another ring and leave a little extra? Thank you! 
Untitled by Livvydog, on Flickr
Untitled by Livvydog, on Flickr
Untitled by Livvydog, on Flickr
Untitled by Livvydog, on FlickrUntitled by Livvydog, on FlickrUntitled by Livvydog, on Flickr85
Bows / Re: Question on tillering a snake bow?
« Last post by Selfbowman on November 05, 2025, 12:12:30 am »Nonbacked that’s exactly what I’m talking about. I done it on a couple bows. Bob Barnes has one. Maybe he can measure the edges of the bends and shed some light on what I’m saying. Hello Bob! 🤠🤠
86
Bows / Re: Question on tillering a snake bow?
« Last post by NonBacked on November 04, 2025, 11:47:53 pm »Arvin, are you suggesting that the extreme outside edges of the curves be thinned to force the strength of the wood (thickness & power) to be closer to the bow’s centerline (tip tp tip)? If that’s the case, dealing with limb twist would have to be “balanced” from side to side (curve to curve). If it worked, there would be a definite increase in efficiency. Interesting idea!
87
Bows / Re: Hackberry backed Ipe English longbow
« Last post by Mo_coon-catcher on November 04, 2025, 11:01:02 pm »Thanks guys!
Del: I bet you’re right. A light core and assembled like a trilam would probably see a performance gain, reduce mass, and make a smoother shooter. Just a bit more work. I did a density check on this board and if I remember right it’s about SG is around 1.2-1.3. So most any normal core wood would probably make a noticeable mass drop
He hackberry definitely worked better than I expected and as well as I hoped. Nothing crazy performance wise but did well holding things together
Threy: here’s a mid process picture of how I did the lace. It would look a bit smoother if I beveled the edge of the lace but just thinning it to about 1oz thickness make it smooth enough. A lacing fid to open the holes and lacing needle help a bunch in getting the lace where it needs to be. It took about an hour and kept a video up of a guy doing g this lace job on a saddle skirt. I hope that helps some
Kyle
Del: I bet you’re right. A light core and assembled like a trilam would probably see a performance gain, reduce mass, and make a smoother shooter. Just a bit more work. I did a density check on this board and if I remember right it’s about SG is around 1.2-1.3. So most any normal core wood would probably make a noticeable mass drop
He hackberry definitely worked better than I expected and as well as I hoped. Nothing crazy performance wise but did well holding things together
Threy: here’s a mid process picture of how I did the lace. It would look a bit smoother if I beveled the edge of the lace but just thinning it to about 1oz thickness make it smooth enough. A lacing fid to open the holes and lacing needle help a bunch in getting the lace where it needs to be. It took about an hour and kept a video up of a guy doing g this lace job on a saddle skirt. I hope that helps some
Kyle
88
Bows / Re: Question on tillering a snake bow?
« Last post by Mo_coon-catcher on November 04, 2025, 10:52:22 pm »I would keep the limbs even thickness along the width. That’s what I try doing on the ones I’ve done and haven’t had any trouble yet
Kyle
Kyle
89
Bows / Re: Black locust 43# at 30” grass carp backed
« Last post by Mo_coon-catcher on November 04, 2025, 10:43:22 pm »Thanks guys!
As far as I’m aware they’ll keep their look pretty decently. But we’ll find out.
Whistling badger: here’s an Osage with common carp skins for comparison I’ve just started putting truoil on. Currently at 1 layer. . Personally I like the common carp look better, but the grass carp is far easier to work with. Scales pop easier and the skins aren’t near as greasy
Kyle
As far as I’m aware they’ll keep their look pretty decently. But we’ll find out.
Whistling badger: here’s an Osage with common carp skins for comparison I’ve just started putting truoil on. Currently at 1 layer. . Personally I like the common carp look better, but the grass carp is far easier to work with. Scales pop easier and the skins aren’t near as greasy
Kyle
90
Bows / Re: Allergic to my Hobby
« Last post by Eric Krewson on November 04, 2025, 08:30:15 pm »So did Micky Lotz.
For me it started with walnut, then osage and lastly, any kind of wood dust.
If you adjust your respirator just right it won't fog up your glasses but it still takes the fun out of working wood. This had a lot to do with me slowing down on bow making an even building flintlock rifles.
The bad news is it get worse over time, even pine dust bothers me now.
For me it started with walnut, then osage and lastly, any kind of wood dust.
If you adjust your respirator just right it won't fog up your glasses but it still takes the fun out of working wood. This had a lot to do with me slowing down on bow making an even building flintlock rifles.
The bad news is it get worse over time, even pine dust bothers me now.