Recent Posts

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71
Flight Bows / Re: Arvins 62" osage design
« Last post by sleek on December 16, 2024, 10:24:15 am »
I ran my formula with the numbers you gave me and the dimensions are exactly what they need to be for the poundage.

I have opinions on the profile of a bow, but being uncertain of their accuracy, ill only say what I firmly believe to be true. The more you stress the inner limb, the more torque you get, the more you bend the outer limb, the more horsepower you get. The limbs profile AND length needs to be built according to those goals. Longer gives more torque shorter more hp. Which, is a large reason my shirt bows have a hard time keeping up with Arvins long bows in shooting broadhead, but also why his long bows struggle against my short in flight.
72
Bows / Re: Staining a stave after sealing and oil bending
« Last post by bassman211 on December 16, 2024, 02:35:33 am »
25 bucks a quart at Lowes which to me is way over the top, and I do use it a lot. I haven't yet, but your better off buying bulk ,and making it your self. I use it for finish on some bows too.
73
Flintknapping / Nethers?
« Last post by paulc on December 16, 2024, 01:38:04 am »
Headed to my in-laws in OH next week and want to take a day to "dig" some rock at Nethers. I know my time and money would be better spent buying rock but that's not a whole lot of fun. Is it still the same setup in years past w honor system, cash in Dropbox, etc...

Thanks for any insight.  Paul
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Flintknapping / Re: PITH 2024
« Last post by paulc on December 16, 2024, 01:35:04 am »
I'll join.  Paul
75
Bows / Re: Tillering in cold weather?
« Last post by superdav95 on December 15, 2024, 11:25:52 pm »
Relative humidity is the key here as stated.  My bows that sit up in my rack in the house here will be quite dry as winter months go by and susceptible to potentially breakage if I take it out and start shooting it without acclimating it’s mc a little first.  Sadly I’ve learned this the hard way.  Cold and very dry are bad combos.   Some woods are more resilient than others but it’s a potential issue.  The bow I broke recently was a tillered bow with no bow sealer or coating on it either.  That could also contributed to mc loss perhaps too.   
76
Bows / Re: Staining a stave after sealing and oil bending
« Last post by superdav95 on December 15, 2024, 11:07:58 pm »
If you debark a stave and seal the back with TB or other similar products that penetrate the wood, does that inhibit the deepness of the stain color? If the answer is YES, then what other type of sealer can be used so that the stain penetrates deeper. Or what can be done to remove the coating so that the stain will be a deeper color?

Also, if oil is used on the belly to add backset or flip the tips, etc, does that inhibit the  deepness of the stain color? If the answer is YES, what can be done to remove the oil?
 
What I have tried for removal is to dampen the wood with water, then slightly heat the stave (oil floats on water and TB will soften) and use a paper towel or rag to wipe off the oil and TB.

The short answer is yes it can inhibit stain a bit on the back if you use a water based poly product to seal up and to some degree also tb3 due to its water proofing.   On the belly it’s a non issue but the back on a white wood bow using shellack as mentioned is good and wipes off well and allows for stain after better.   I used to use a water based poly brush on product but found same issue of blocking stain penetration.  It’s easy to rectify however with a light scuff of 220 paper.  I use oil based stuff now that wipes off with alcohol or acetone depending what I’m doing.  I find the water based poly or varethane coatings hard to wipe off.  I do not use tb3 anymore either for sealing ends and back of a stave.  If you can get it shellack is great stuff. 
77
Bows / Re: Small Yew Stave - Any Advice?
« Last post by superdav95 on December 15, 2024, 10:53:46 pm »
Great advice from hamish!  I agree with working it down a bit to floor tiller at least then reassess things from there as to heat corrections or steam.  Lately I’ve been using more steam bending and heat corrections on my yew builds.  Little safer and less potential for overheating belly wood.  Yew is indeed magical stuff.  Just don’t overheat it and try to avoid heat correcting same area more then once if making corrections.  If you sapwood is questionable these yew bows take well to sinew.  I e done a number of them now it’s a great combo.  Even using tb3 with sinew as your glue works quite well too.  Lots of help here when you get after it.  Post lots of pics and ask lots of questions when you need.  A lot of good experience from the members here.  Del has his own YouTube channel too that’s great reference for yew builds.  Keep us posted. 
78
Bows / Re: What do you think?
« Last post by superdav95 on December 15, 2024, 10:16:14 pm »
That looks like it’s giving everything it’s got to me

Agreed.  Looks good WB
79
Bows / Re: What do you think?
« Last post by WhistlingBadger on December 15, 2024, 08:21:05 pm »
OK, I'll leave 'er be.  Thanks, guys! 
For my future reference:  This bow was originally going to be a fiber-backed antelope bow, short so I could shoot it out of a blind.  Is there a way to make a bow this length draw to 27"?  (I really do draw that far, Pappy--I have long arms!)  Bendy handle?  Sinew backing?  I don't like short draw bows; the inability to anchor messes with my aim.
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Primitive Skills / Re: Life is good
« Last post by Pappy on December 15, 2024, 07:39:30 pm »
Found this spike dead while out riding around, not sure what happened but the buzzards was having a feast with him. Then a good supper of deer neck roast and of course Dave's tatters. Then had a good time watching Annie and Don's Shepard playing tug a war with a deer leg, these 2 dogs are the same age,raised together, both girls and never fight , just hang out and play all the time. Makes me tired just watching them.  :) :) Hope yall had a good one also. Life is Good. :)
 Pappy
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