Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Pat B. on June 30, 2014, 04:29:04 pm
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The osage shorty thread made me wonder -------------
If you use glued on tip overlays of horn or perhaps another hard wood could you add a bit of length to nock to nock length by cutting your string grooves a bit beyond the osage stave? In other words, cutting your string grooves out on the overlays rather than in the stave itself.. Wonder if they'd hang on and if so would you still use the super glue as the adhesive of choice ? Maybe a 1/2'' on either end ??
Not worth the risk ?
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id think youd wanna go with the best wood glue you can get, with perfect gluelines.
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not something id wanna shoot though, if that overlay pops off its coming straight for your face.
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I'd vote for not worth the risk.
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I'd vote for not worth the risk.
+100
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I wouldn't even string it up if the bow was over twenty pounds ???
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That's how I do most of mine, have a peek at yours. I cut the grooves in right where the core ends. It allows me to make a 66" ntn bow with a 66" stave. Ive had ONE overlay issue ever. I used the wrong wood and it exploded, no other failures of any type.
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But don't go beyond what you've described, Chris ?
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I don't suggest cutting the groove in beyond the end of the bow, no. Consider the forces at work with an overlay and it will make more sense as to why you can get away with it. Unless its too short and pulled too far the string is never pulling on a 90, its always pulling down and in on a healthy bow.
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I do it quite a bit, altogether usually starts out about flush with the ends, if you make the overlays 6" long you'll have no problems, but I glue those longer overlays on with tb3 I can post a few pic,s when I get home
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I go along with Pearly, just not that much leverage involved even at 1/4" past the stave. Doing them just past flush I don't consider much of an issue at all.
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I would think that even if the glue joint on an overlay was only 1 1/2" that you could get away with string grooves a bit beyond flush...
Thanks for the input..
And I'd like to see any pix if possible ---- just to see what is being done..
I've seen Chris's work up close and personal and it is impecable!
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This bow (http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/42217/New-Mollegabet-Hybrid-bow-Nearly-done-new-pics-added?page=1) has been an inspiration for me for a long time. Whenever I come across a suitable stave, I will try something similar.
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/shellshock187/Molly%20type%20flight%20bows/toplever.jpg)
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/shellshock187/Molly%20type%20flight%20bows/SAM_0385.jpg)
It allows you to splice in tips, which can result in a bow of unlimited length.
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The extended stave via siyah is the best trick you can do. I make them all the time. I remember when we walked Bert through the splicing process with the above bow.
Here's a couple of four foot Elm staves extended out a foot or so.
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/CIMG3955.jpg)
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(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/Picture011.jpg) (http://s623.photobucket.com/user/bubncheryl/media/Picture011.jpg.html)
is this what you were thinking, I've gone several inches past with no problems, this was just an easy pic to find
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that looks trustworthy to me, Bubby. Clearly the key is drastically extending the glue surface area. Looks pretty cool too. 8)
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Here are a few in varying distances from the tip.
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While siyahs are usually v-spliced in a simple lap splice like the above overlays will support a considerable extension if glued and wrapped.
All the cheap horsebows out there have a lap splice for the siyah.
Tim Baker actually claims that extensions will hold up if not wrapped. There is even a picture in one of the TBB showing this.
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Thanks weylin, it's very trustworthy, I've run them several more inches with no problems
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Thanks for the pictures, they all look great and provide inspiration !
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The extended stave via siyah is the best trick you can do. I make them all the time. I remember when we walked Bert through the splicing process with the above bow.
Here's a couple of four foot Elm staves extended out a foot or so.
(http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/pat_05/CIMG3955.jpg)
Oh, man, they are pretty bows, I like the subtlety... not over done. Clean lines.
Splicing on a couple of extra inches is no prob when done like that...
Del
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This bow (http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/42217/New-Mollegabet-Hybrid-bow-Nearly-done-new-pics-added?page=1) has been an inspiration for me for a long time. Whenever I come across a suitable stave, I will try something similar.
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/shellshock187/Molly%20type%20flight%20bows/toplever.jpg)
(http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj168/shellshock187/Molly%20type%20flight%20bows/SAM_0385.jpg)
It allows you to splice in tips, which can result in a bow of unlimited length.
Those look like they are spliced into quarter/rift sawn Ash is that correct?
Grady
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This thread is a great example of people originally urging caution, and to follow "conventional wisdom" -- and then several examples popping up that show that the conventional wisdom doesn't necessarily capture the whole picture.
It's so awesome to me that even though this craft is thousands of years old, we're still finding out new things about it.
(For what it's worth, when I first read it my first thought was spliced siyahs as well. And those have been around for a long time. So in this case it's just kind of re-discovering what the ancients already knew.)
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Nice tips,It has never been the issue of the string breaking them off to me,Like has been said not that much pressure on them anyway,it is hitting them on something when they are passed the bow wood that will cause the problem,the leverage you get when they are beyond is high and since I am pretty rough on stuff I don't go passed the bow wood with my tips. But they sure are pretty I will admit. ;) :) :)
Pappy
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If done poorly, they can be dangerous I guess? But, so can a regular bow. Just make sure to get a good mating and good glue lines.
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Bubby,When strung where does the string ride in relation to the end of the stave, in my mind as long as the downward force is still pretty centered over where the stave ends it'd work. Nice tips too!!