Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Easternarcher on September 24, 2007, 09:48:29 pm
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I wasn't sure if this would work out, but I'm pretty happy with it for my second FINISHED bow. I've built 3, but the second one crysalled badly so died quietly. :'(
This is a hickory backed Jatoba (Brazilian cherry) straight longbow. Draws pretty smooth and top-ends at 27" Also quieter than I expected too, which is nice. Surprisingly little handshock! I debated a long time on the riser design, but in the end wanted to try a radius'ed shelf with a locator grip. I'm happy with it..I was worried that it was cut too close to center, but I beefed up the riser with maple accented jatoba with overlay of walnut on grip, as well as jatoba under walnut riser overlay. Grip is waxed cordage..I like the feel of this and will use it again. It is a nice grip, but slick enough to adjust your hand.
66"overall - 64" ntn, 47-50lb @ 27"- 1.25" wide at fades out to mid-limb and tapered to 1/2" nocks with Jatoba tip overlays. Finish is a couple coats of light pecan stain overall and 5 coats of spray-on Tru-oil...I love that stuff! BTW, it developed 1.5" of set, but it still shoots.
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w301/Easternarcher/Picture032.jpg)
IMG]http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w301/Easternarcher/Picture030.jpg[/IMG]
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w301/Easternarcher/Picture026.jpg)
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w301/Easternarcher/Picture004-1.jpg)
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w301/Easternarcher/Picture020.jpg)
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w301/Easternarcher/Picture010.jpg)
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w301/Easternarcher/Picture015.jpg)
(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w301/Easternarcher/Picture012.jpg)
It DID develope a hairline fret just off the fade on the top limb...look close you can see the repair I tried...took off the finish and ran some superglue in the fret and refinished. Didin't appear to be lifting, but I hope it holds thru hunting season. I WILL be carrying it.
Comments are welcome
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Eastern, I do a lot of work with jatoba, I like it for it's straight grain and speed, I do have trouble with frets also, I usually make them very narrow and very stiff in the outer limb and very wide in the inner limb. Steve
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Eastern, I do a lot of work with jatoba, I like it for it's straight grain and speed, I do have trouble with frets also, I usually make them very narrow and very stiff in the outer limb and very wide in the inner limb. Steve
I'll have to remember that...how wide should I have gone? 1.5" or wider??
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That's a very pretty bow. Also there is nothing wrong with 1 1/2" set with a straight bow. But ,Where do you find Truoil Spray?
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That's a very pretty bow. Also there is nothing wrong with 1 1/2" set with a straight bow. But ,Where do you find Truoil Spray?
Hey Mullet, actually it's all I could find up here in our Wallymart. It's the FIRST time I've been able to find any kind of Tru-oil here...I bought 3 cans of the stuff! ;D
Problem is that overspray wastes alot! >:(
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That's funny,the last time I was in Wally mart I found it in the closeout for a $1 a bottle.I bought it all.
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That's funny,the last time I was in Wally mart I found it in the closeout for a $1 a bottle.I bought it all.
How about 11.00 bucks a can! :o :o and be thankful they carry any!
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Whew!,I'll pass.
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hey easternarcher! - STRICTLY forbidden for beginners' bows to come out that nice ;D ;D ;D !!!
very fine tiller and don't worry: 1.5" of set won't keep the bow from shooting good.
btw did you induce reflex when you glued up the blank??
like the handlewrap, too!
frank
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Real nice looking bow the contrast between the hickory and the Jatoba is very striking.
Tiller also looks right on.
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Very well done.
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Beautiful bow,great job. :)
Pappy
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hey easternarcher! - STRICTLY forbidden for beginners' bows to come out that nice ;D ;D ;D !!!
very fine tiller and don't worry: 1.5" of set won't keep the bow from shooting good.
btw did you induce reflex when you glued up the blank??
like the handlewrap, too!
frank
Oh man! I guess I didn't read the memo ;D I like to do the best job I can on anything...Medicinewhell, I did not glue in ANY reflex at all! I wanted to try a straight limb to practice my tillering. Guess I did alright. ;) :D HAndle wrap is actually 2-84" waterproof waxed hiking boot laces..On the back side of the grip is where I spliced the ends in....funny how ONE 84" lace still wasn't enough to cover the entire grip area, and it still only fits to the heal of my hand. It's not glued in either, I wanted it removable, but it is holding very tightly.
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Nice looking bow Eastern, I'll have to try the handle wrap you did I like it.
VB
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Sweet - some fancy woodworking there :)
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OK Guys... a little help here...in the full draw pics of my two finished bows, it appears that in BOTH bows I have the stiffer limb on top....even tho the tiller shows 1/8 - 1.4" positive on the upper at the fades. Am I just not quite finessing the tiller in the outer half of the limb or what?
AM I correct in saying that you want the strong limb on the bottom? ??? See I'm still in the learning stages here...
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the outer halfs of your limbs are a little on the stiff side, but its working for you. Next time you can try to even it out a little more - none of this is set in stone, flow with it and try different strategies.
I always forget too abotu which limb for bottom.
I got a Jatooba board 4 years ago and cut 3 slats out of it, did one with hickory that held together, adn also had several frets.
The to others exploded during tillering with little explanation, although back in those days I was rushing tillering and not excercising the piece enough.
Your tips look a lot like mine.
Dave
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I had bookmarked your fine bow into my BOM files for Sept but didn't mention it. Looking forward to seeing this one during Sept Backed BOM next week.
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Thanks OLDBOW...the honour is mine.
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With wood bows you have to be at full draw before you can see propper tiller. At brace height you can't hardly tell anything. Generally the stiffer limb should be at the bottom.
I have started setting my bows symetrical with the handle in the center of the stave and I don't do anything with the handle area until I have finished the tillering and shot the bow a few times. This way, if necessary, I can switch the top for the bottom limb. Pat
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From your full draw pic it does look like the outter 2/3 of the top limb is not bending much. Try to get even bending from just past the fades to about 6" from the tips. Pat
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From your full draw pic it does look like the outter 2/3 of the top limb is not bending much. Try to get even bending from just past the fades to about 6" from the tips. Pat
Pat, I used a walkietalkie, but must have missed that somehow....although I remember quitting early cuz I wanted to keep in the legal hunting weight range. I'll do better next time. ::)