Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: 4est Trekker on April 02, 2011, 11:53:20 am
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Here's a bow I'm working on for a trade on another site. It's a pyramid bow, 68" tip to tip with 2" of reflex heated into it. Here's a few pictures of the process so far.
I harvested a big osage about 2 1/2 years ago that so far has yielded 8 bows. Here's a few of the staves:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Justins%20Custom%20Osage%20Siyahed%20Static%20Recurve/HPIM3841.jpg)
This is the one I chose for this particular bow:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Justins%20Custom%20Osage%20Siyahed%20Static%20Recurve/HPIM3835.jpg)
Here it is roughed out:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4758.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4757.jpg)
After a bit of heating on the caul, it yielded this. I've since heated it two more times to tweak the alignment.
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4761.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4762.jpg)
It's now on the short string (4" brace height) and tillered to 20"
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4790.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4791.jpg)
It's holding 1 3/4" of reflex when relaxed and 7/8" just unstrung. My camera curves the image, so the bow actually looks flat in the next picture, which was take immediately after unstringing. However, there's really 7/8" of reflex in the limbs.
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4792.jpg)
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Here's three sister bows built from the same tree for a little teaser:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Justins%20Custom%20Osage%20Siyahed%20Static%20Recurve/HPIM4469.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Osage%20Static%20Recurve%20for%20Maggie/HPIM3745.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Osage%20Static%20Recurve%20for%20Maggie/HPIM3709.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Osage%20Static%20Recurve%20for%20Maggie/HPIM3750.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Trad%20Gang%20Trade%20Bow%202010/HPIM3865.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Trad%20Gang%20Trade%20Bow%202010/HPIM3866.jpg)
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Looks really nice. That was a good tree and all those bows look great.
George
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That static recurve still gets me, such a nice looking bow.
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On the tips, you look to have about 7 layers of thin strips of various woods? What are those woods and how thick were the strips used?
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I was wondering the same thing about those "lams" or "colored strips" n the tips through the brush nocks. Sexy looking too, but I am curious about the build process on that bows tips ;D
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Really nice work. The brush nocks look nicely done, And your recurve Kerf lines are clean. Well done.
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ooooh, she's very pretty, I think I'm in lurve ;D.
Del
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WOW! I remember seeing the one with the brush nocks around when I first started. You sure make the most out of every log. Can't wait to see this one finished.
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Thanks for the kind words, all. Regarding the brush knocks: I use strips ranging between 1/16" and 3/32". I apply the lams one at a time, which allows them to form to the curve of the bow (which really isn't much there). Once they're all applied, I shape the knocks using a Dremel sanding drum and hand files. Here's a few more pictures of those particular nocks:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Osage%20Static%20Recurve%20for%20Maggie/HPIM3723.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Osage%20Static%20Recurve%20for%20Maggie/HPIM3731.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Osage%20Static%20Recurve%20for%20Maggie/HPIM3710.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Osage%20Static%20Recurve%20for%20Maggie/HPIM3726.jpg)
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Thanks for the extra pics 4est, so is the whole bow made from osage lams then? I am still trying to envision how you get that long darker lam that runs in the middle of the limb/tip. I can see how the other layers are all added but that one single line stumps me (not hard to do on some days ::))
Thanks~
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That's a kerfed recurve. I resaw the last 7-8" of the limb on the band saw, in effect creating two lams that can now be bent into a curve by hand. By inserting a thin piece of wood (the darker one), I fill the gap left by the kerf of the saw. I apply glue to all surfaces and then clamp it in a recurve caul. In effect, I've got a selfbow on the inner 2/3 of the bow, and a laminated bow on the outer 1/3. I hope that makes sense. :)
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great looking bows 4est, been wanting to try that kerfed recurve, glad you reposted it, Bub
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Thanks 4est, that makes perfect sense and is what I assumed you had done but from the pics I still couldn't make out where it was a kerf or not (which is a sign of a good kerf imho) Thanks again for sharing your techniques and pics...very, very nice workmanship.
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I have to ask. You show the one picture of a bow with syahs. Did you sinew back that bow? What is the length of the bow? How far does it draw? I have always thought that osage would take the bend required for this style of bow. Congratulations on your bow building skills!!!!
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Awesome looking bows 4est. I have never seen the kerf technique. When doing so do you apply the perry reflex glue in the kerfed area?
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Your bows are great 4est fell in love with them the second you started the build along that made you famous :)
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nyarrow: Yep, that's exactly right. The glue joint holds the bend induced at glue-up.
DLH: You know, I never thought more than a few people would every use that buildalong. It was kind of just something I did to pass the time. I really should redo it and/or update it a bit.
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this looks great, and it makes me want to see "the buildalong that made you famous"....what was that?
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yeah 4est, you should repost you're red oak build-a-long, lots of newbie's on here and it's a great, very detailed build-a-long,probablly help a lot of them out, Bub
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4est you have done gone and made art. Bet the thing shoots too.
About that build-a-long...Would really like to see that if you have the time.
Lane
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Thanks, all. I'll have to see about posting a revised version of the buildalong here on PA. I would love to help ya'll out, and just need to some to organize it a bit. Here's a picture of the buildalong bow that is now piked to 65". The left limb is the bottom (and thus stronger) limb. It's heavy near the fade on the tree, but pulls into an even tiller when drawn in the hand with a low-heel grip. It's 2" short of full draw and holds 3/4" of the original 2" of reflex heated in. The tips have been left wide and stiff in case I decide to flip the tips. Thanks for looking!
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4840.jpg)
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nyarrow: Yep, that's exactly right. The glue joint holds the bend induced at glue-up.
DLH: You know, I never thought more than a few people would every use that buildalong. It was kind of just something I did to pass the time. I really should redo it and/or update it a bit.
Yes that would be good your a great teacher as well. I have wondered as to how narrow red oak could go as well. Maybe include some heat treating or perry reflex to add some new techniques?
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That trade bow is looking awesome 4est. And those other bows are beauties. Nice work ;)
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Howdy, folks. Here's an update on the bow. I flipped the tips just a tiny bit using the kerf technique (i.e. I resawed the last several inches of the limb and glued in a thin rosewood lamination while inducing reflex). I than added rosewood tip underlays and overlays. I haven't yet roughed in the handle.
It's shown at my full draw, which is still 2" short of the recipient's. It's also going to come out smack dab at the bottom end of the recipient's requested weight. I would have liked about 3-5# on this one, but I think it will do just fine. After working it in to the recipient's full draw and shooting it a bunch at my draw length the tips are about dead even after unstringing, settling to about 1/2" of reflex when relaxed. Not perfect, but I'm a-okay with it. I've turned the final full draw picture sideways and cropped it so you can get a better look. Thanks!
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4847.jpg)
Top limb is on top here:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4853.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4849.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4851.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4850.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4854.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4857.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4857_2.jpg)
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look's great, I know I'd take her in a heart beat, Bub
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Awesome bow 4est. perfect for hunting or anything else... looks like you used a tapered lam in the kerf. you can use a non tapered kerf I imagine(cant do a taper to save my life) -tiller is spot on btw, excellent job on everything
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Eric: Depending on how thick your kerf cut is, you can use a straight lamination. Actually, for this one I just created a straight lamination using a little jig (see below) I made and the tapered the end by hand on my belt sander until it fit snuggly into the base of the kerf. I didn't really set out to create a perfect tapered lam.
Below is a rough little mock-up of the jig I use to sand my kerf and underlay laminations thin and flat. It's obviously not to scale, but basically the little lip keeps the lam from shooting off the belt sander while the longer part allows me to put equal pressure on the lam, preventing me from sanding a radius into it.
___________________________________________________________________________
| |
| ______________________________________________________________|
|____________| <---------------------------------- Lam rides here
_____________________________________________________________________________
<--------------- SANDING BELT <------------------- )
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Thanks for the tip 4est. I think I need to invest in a belt/disc sander. right now I just use my 3x21 hand belt sander upside down in a vise. I do like the idea of the kerf recurve with tropicals especially since they seem to be hard to heat bend.
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That little ASCII sketch made it all clear, thanks. Now you got me wanting to do this on a bow. I may never have time to do all the tricks I have seen used on this site.
And back to the bow itself....sweeeeeeet!
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4est, very nice work. The bow is outstanding! Jawge
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I've been watching a little spot on the lower fade that was fishy from the start. It appeared to be a slight defect in the wood that I noticed after heating in the reflex. It has since developed into a chrysal. It has been holding fine after about 50 shots today at full draw (which is two inches longer than mine and ain't easy to manage for my scrawny little arms!). However, I could never send it off in its present condition, so I decided to repair the area using a rosewood plug. Here's some pictures of the process. The first is of the offending area:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4858.jpg)
I've roughly marked my 1/4" diameter hole to be sure I can remove all of the damaged wood:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4865.jpg)
Next, I clamp the bow to my drill press work table and properly align a 1/4" straight cutting router bit will a flat bottom profile. I set the drill press to the highest RPM's and then drill the hole:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4866.jpg)
I use a 1/4" plug cutter to cut out a Honduras rosewood plug. H. rosewood has a specific gravity of about 0.90 while osage is around 0.82. I use a wood denser than the bow for the plug to help prevent it from collapsing on itself:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4867.jpg)
I saturate the hole with superglue and tap the plug home:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4869.jpg)
A little sanding and we're back in business:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4870.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4872.jpg)
Looks kind of like a wart, eh? I'll leave it sit overnight and start drawing it some tomorrow. Thanks for looking.
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Miss Monroe had a beauty mark and she made quite the last impression...I'm sure this Osage will as well. Nice work 4rest.
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This bow is giving me a 7 Year Itch.
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Alright, so here's an update on the "plug patch." There seems to be no ill effect on the bow. Here it is drawn to 1" shy of full draw. Sorry about the poor picture...it's at work where I often use the large mirrors to tiller a bow. :)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4893.jpg)
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That is a beautiful bow. I like your fix for the little fret and the kerf lamination technique is great too. I've learned a few things from this thread. :)
Darcy
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nice save, I will have to remember that technique, thanks for showing the process.
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Well, I gotta stop shooting this bow in before I ruin what few arrows I have left. Here's some indoor shots from 15 yards today...I scared the nock off of one arrow :scared: I've got the handle contoured and am ready for final sanding, finish, etc. Looking forward to giving it away :)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4900.jpg)
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That's some fine shooting 4est! You were smart to wrap below your nocks. Hey, here's a tip that will help with those busted nocks. If you can find the rest of the nock, super glue it back on, then heat the plastic nock and remove. Your repair (nock taper) will have already been made when you glued the busted piece back on and now all you'll need to do is glue on a new nock. Works exceptionally well...........Art
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as usual 4est fine work. im glad you posted the plug on the edge of the limb. ive been doing that with deer antler for some time , been criticized by some saying it wouldnt last,well it will and does. i have a couple bows that are several years old and were repaired in that fashion. it holds up just fine, even on the limb edge. again beautifull work.
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Here's the finished pictures of the bow. It's 64" ntn, but I can't reveal the draw weight/length as it's for a trade on another site...I'd hate to give it away :-) I've been shooting it a bunch and really like the way it handles. I wrapped the end of the kerf cut in the tips just for added security. I've never had one give, but a good solid wrap is cheap insurance. You can catch a glimpse of that plug patch in some of the photos, which still reminds me of a "beauty mark." Anyway, thanks for lookng!
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4916.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4915.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4913.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4918.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4930.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4931.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/2011%20TG%20Trade%20Bow/HPIM4937.jpg)
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beautiful bow 4est. , whoever gets that will be proud ;D
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Great bow!
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That turned out amazingly well!! Love it! Maybe call it Marilyn ;)
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Man that's sweet
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Thanks, gentlemen. I appreciate the kind words. :)
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That a beauty,very nice work in all aspects. :)
Pappy