Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Hornseeker on October 29, 2009, 04:31:38 pm
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Alright, been building glass and carbon bows for about 4 years now and have come close to getting into au naturale bows several times... but this time I'm Serious!!! ::)
Are most of you gluing D/R into your blanks by just clamping the mid limbs over a 2X4 or do you have "proper forms" like I use with a glass bow...or what? I'd sure like to see some pics of your wood clamped down in glue up!
Also, I am going to start work on BBI real soon and probably some BBO too...but what other woods are appropriate to back with boo?
What are some of the most common, reliable sources of boo? Is there something I need to steer away from? I am looking at Franks and Master Garden... do you commonly get good boo from them? Is their 2" boo cut from larget diamter boo plants than their 1 1/2" boo??
Is there any reason I shouldn't use smoothon for my glue ups??
Thanks very much, I am really looking forward to getting started on this. I build 3 Piece glass/carbon bows now and am looking forward to building a 3 piece BBO/BBI... anyone done this yet???
Ernie
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Hi, and welcome! If you can get your hands on Dean Torges' video "Hunting the Bamboo Backed Bow", do it. He goes through, in very good detail, how he does glue-ups. Best I've seen, and it's what I use.
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You will see many variations in forms around here. Mostly guys use whatever they have on hand. If by "proper forms" you mean store bought, NO most of us don't play that game. We might build a form when we have a style we like to repeat, but 2X4s and some clamps are as good as anything.
Franks sells some pretty good boo. If you order from them, get the thicker 2" wide stuff and you will always have what you need.
I use smooth on frequently.
Justin
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Nah...by "proper"...and not sure why I used that word... I was speaking of a full form like I use for my laminated glass bows...one that mirrors the entire shape of the bow/limb.
Surfing around today, i saw several variations of forms using 2X4's stacked in different configurations!
Thanks!
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Smooth on works great, but it's expensive. I primarly use URAC 185 for that reason.
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I will order some Urac....
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I'll second what adb said.
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hey hornseeker!! try rudderbow!! this guy is cool he has written some small books the methods are soo simple!! they seem like I could do better! but let me clue you in ,,,, he has tested and retested you can't go wrong!!! his name is jim b. when you do a bow project it's like a compass you have to follow it! we all know what could happen if you don't trust your compass we'll see you back on the ship JEFF W
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Cmon guys...Torges? I know he is a master and such, but this site has several fantastic bow builders and many many great bow builders... I dont need to buy a book...I just need some of them to chime in... The resource is HERE...
I will keep browsing and surfing the site... its just nice to get some pointers right off so I dont have to read every thread!
Thanks! Look forward to messing up a few bows and getting some ideas from you guys!
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Don't buy the book, get the DVD.
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I know, don't buy the book or the dvd, learn the hard way like most of us did. ;D
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Cmon guys...Torges? I know he is a master and such, but this site has several fantastic bow builders and many many great bow builders... I dont need to buy a book...I just need some of them to chime in... The resource is HERE...
I will keep browsing and surfing the site... its just nice to get some pointers right off so I dont have to read every thread!
Thanks! Look forward to messing up a few bows and getting some ideas from you guys!
I already told you what I do. Sounds like you already know something about forms and have a few. How about you show us what you have. Justin
Here are a few worth reading.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,1978.0.html
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,2094.0.html
Dont be affraid of the search option on this site, there is a ton of info out there. And we promise you wont find anything that will make you blush to much using our search. :-[
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Thanks Justin, thats exaclty what I'm talking about.. alot of you guys know the threads that had some good form pics and build a longs on them! Those two look great. I wiill search as I get time... but was just throwing out a call for more help.... ???
The joy of having forums like this Dano, is that a lot of the new guys dont have to go through all the trial and error times that others went through. When I see someone asking about how to do something, if I know how to do it...or have something useful for them..I try and convey it to them. You know, we've all heard, "no need to reinvent the wheel".. thats sorta what I mean. With a few veterans help, I'll be able to turn out a decent bow in no time.. not telling how llong it would take my pea brain to build a good one without advice!
;D
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i happened upon a car inner tube and cut it into a "stretch clamp". just cut into uniform strips about 2" wide and once you have the glue applied and the lams put together, you start in the middleand stretch wrap out to the tips. once wrapped, you can put it on a form and clamp it into whatever reflex you want. my most recent is a hickory backed ipe that started out with about 3" reflex and after around 80 shots, it hasn't lost much of that. i like this method, but there are many that work. keep fiddling untill yop find one that you like!
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What does a guy look for in a piece of hickory to make a backing strip?? quarter sawn or flat sawn? Quarter sounds right...but????
I see hickory and boo used as backing strips alot.. are there any other woods that make a good backing strip?
Have any of you used Bubinga for a belly material? BBB, Boo Backed Bubinga?? It seems like it would work good...
Purple heart?
Jarra?
Yellow Heart?
E
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Other woods will work for backing. You just need to match the belly wood to the backing or vise verse. The best combo to me is bamboo backed ipe or osage but it would be pretty boring if that's all anyone used. Strong tension backing goes on high compression strength belly wood and lower compression strength belly wood needs a backing that wont overpower it. Also straight grain is important on the back and desirable on the belly as well. Iv'e seen ash and maple used as backings as well as other woods.
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For backing grain orientation you need to read George's site. http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/archer.html
I like purpleheart but not yellowheart under boo. Like Jesse said, lots of woods can be used for backings and or bellies, you just have to match them.
I am still waiting to see pictures of your forms you used for your FG bows. ???
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v351/hornseeker/Kidformlams.jpg)
Here's a pic I have handy of a kids bow form... my other is similar but is only 1 limb....
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All depends on the kind of bow Im making. I just have one pic of a bow in any kiind of form. This is a laminated bow that is made with mulitple glue ups. This is of the back and core getting glued together and put in a form made from one 2"x4" with 2"x4" pieces on the end holding the limb tips and 3/4"X3/4" in the center.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/Burnie000/ipetrilam024.jpg?t=1257193224)
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Cool...that is a simple and highly adjustable form! So easy to play with differences in reflex and deflex! I wish it was that easy with the glass bows... :o
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As for hickory backing, you can use flat sawn. Look for a really straight-grain board(and no knots) and follow the grain while bandsawing strips. Stay away from any heartwood(darker colour, vs white) when it comes to hickory. Make it 1/8" thick and belt sand flat/smooth. I have a coupla hickory d/r bows done this way and working on a third now. After working with bamboo a bit, I'm leaning towards hickory for the ease of use.
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Cool...that is a simple and highly adjustable form! So easy to play with differences in reflex and deflex! I wish it was that easy with the glass bows... :o
Not meaning to be ugly, but glass bows are a piece of cake. The tiller is almost null. Once you get into the all organic, you will need to work on the tillering aspect. Both side and belly. Glass prevents the need to read wood grain. Ive made glass bows with the worse grain you could get. I do like glass bows in the sense you can put some beautifyl wood under glass. I have not made one in a looooonnngg time, but they can show some beautiful wood, that cant even be considered for an all organic bow. The form I posted a pic of is about as simple as you can get for lam bows. And as you said, it is real easy to adjust the amount of reflex and deflex.
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There's no doubt about that Kent... I was not saying the wood bows are easier...I was saying that that form is easier to adjust d/r on than on my glass bow forms... I am looking forward to playing with tiller on the organics!
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There's no doubt about that Kent... I was not saying the wood bows are easier...I was saying that that form is easier to adjust d/r on than on my glass bow forms... I am looking forward to playing with tiller on the organics!
Sorry about the assumption. You are absolutly right. Once you have a glass form cut out, thats about it.