My new yew bow 125#@32"

[YewArcher]

Just finished up my new bow.

Here are the specs:
76" Nock to Nock
Pacific yew 40 RPI
125@32"
Took aboout 1/2"of set with about 200 arrows through so far.

This stave started out as a basket case. It had a 1" of deflex and about a 60 degree propeller twist. It took alot of work to get a bow out of and all the way I had my doubts until the end! Now at the end I am nothing but pleased with this bow.

Here are some pics: (The  one on the bottom is the new bow the other is my old bow used for size refernce its 90#@32")


Bottom Nock:


Topnock:


Cloe up:


Braced (new bow is on the left):


Almost full draw. I am going to have to grow into this one a bit. Here she is at around 30". (those arrows are 32" BOP). That last 2" will be hard gained but I will get there soon!


I like showing this pic as well. It really show cases the English War Bow when next to standard bows...scary  arnt they 


For scale refrence from the left: 90#@32", 125@32", 60#@30, 60#@30"


Thanks for looking!

SJM

[Justin Snyder]

Those are all some sweet looking bows.  Thanks for sharing. Justin

[Marc St Louis]

Nice stuff.  I don't know if you have made a war bow of 150# or more but they are something else.  A 120# bow is almost manageable to me but when they get real heavy, like 150# or more then it's like trying to lift the front end of my truck.  The wheels will never get off the ground 

[YewArcher]

I here ya Mark, This is the heaviset bow that I have made so far. I think this may be the max that I can make comfortably.......maybe. I was shooting for 140#@32 and ended up with 125#. It seems like when you start pushing up to those limits the wood starts to really break down quick. Better way t say it is it seems like the wood is real real stiff and then by the time you get it flexing you are ending at 125-130........I think the wood has allot to say about it when you are pusing to these levels. maybe thats where Steve Strattons Italinan Yew really starts to shine.

SJM

[cowboy]

That's a lot of bows, cool - enjoyed looking .

[medicinewheel]

yeah! lots of cool bows!
frank

[sailordad]

i like it

these war bows are something in the realm of extreme

i couldnever pull one back,bad shoulders ya know.

curious though, were these made to shoot for distance and penetration or were they made for distance,penetration and accuracy?
or were they made this heavy just because of the stature of the men shooting them?

im ignorant on this subject

                                                   peace,
                                                           tim

[bow-toxo]

i like it

curious though, were these made to shoot for distance and penetration or were they made for distance,penetration and accuracy?
or were they made this heavy just because of the stature of the men shooting them?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The laws and descriptions of shooting or training in the mediaeval and Tudor times place more emphasis on accuracy than on distance. Other cultures in which military archery was important {Chinese, Arab etc] trained like the English archers, starting young and taking up a stronger bow as soon as they could master the one they had. The result is the use of bows of over 100 pounds draw weight that can throw arrows long distances, and accurate shooting with long, necessarily heavy arrows that automatically have high penetration. These are the reasons that Edward III chose longbows as the main infantry weapons.



                                                   
                                                           

[sailordad]

thank you,once again i have been enlightened.

[nick1346]

i like it

curious though, were these made to shoot for distance and penetration or were they made for distance,penetration and accuracy?
or were they made this heavy just because of the stature of the men shooting them?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The laws and descriptions of shooting or training in the mediaeval and Tudor times place more emphasis on accuracy than on distance. Other cultures in which military archery was important {Chinese, Arab etc] trained like the English archers, starting young and taking up a stronger bow as soon as they could master the one they had. The result is the use of bows of over 100 pounds draw weight that can throw arrows long distances, and accurate shooting with long, necessarily heavy arrows that automatically have high penetration. These are the reasons that Edward III chose longbows as the main infantry weapons.



                                                   
                                                           

Absolutely. In a rove your expected to shoot over very long distances and accuratley, if you manage the distance but not the accuracy then it doesn't count for much. The two go hand in hand. To master and I mean realy master a heavy bow you have to be stable to reach the distances, if your not stable you won't get the distance. Stabilty breeds accuracy. If your stable and not straining you become accurate. I'm still working on it!

[YewArcher]

Nick, what distances are you all shooting at over there while Roving?

SJM

[ThimoS]

Wonderfull work and beauty of a collection there.

[YewArcher]

thanks Thimo,

Lots of bow making been going on over here!

She is still holding the same amount of set and has lost now weight. Great shooting bow. I will try and get some shot distances soon.

SJM

[D. Tiller]

Question! Do you have the limbs start to taper straight out of the handle or do you keep them parallel to mid limb?

I have tried them both ways and seems like the one that tapers straight out of the handle are the ones I make with less hand shock. Still have not made one up to the weights you all are but I will one day!

David T

[YewArcher]

Dave, My width is the same for 20". 10" to either side of the center line. I then start to taper to the tips. The depth is slightly differnt. I usually keep the first 5"  from center the same depth and then start tapering. This usually give me a nice compass profile on a long draw.

SJM