Author Topic: kiln dried Maple selfbow  (Read 13423 times)

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline John K

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,936
kiln dried Maple selfbow
« on: June 25, 2008, 04:05:23 pm »
This is one i'm working on at the moment. Kiln dried Maple board that i got from a friend who was using it for stickers for his lumber.
There where 2 that had some nice grain and he said i could take them. I have it tillered to 50# @ 23" i'm shooting for 28" it's 67 " ttt. I also had some Purple Heart sitting around so i thought i would try my hand at glueing on some tip overlays and a handle.

Hope you enjoy the pics !







John
The only way to fail is to never start !

Offline chessieboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 184
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2008, 04:22:39 pm »
looks good. I'm taking it that your still working it down since you said that you wanted it 27 or 28". The right limb looks a little stiff if so. The other thing I saw was that in the close up of the nock the groove closest to the handle looked a little sharp. I would sand or file it down just a little so it doesn't nick your string. Bow does look good though.
Bill

Offline John K

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,936
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2008, 04:45:24 pm »
Thanks Bill, The next bow i make i'm going to do my tips a little different and come more with a 45 degree angle instead of strait across.........

John
The only way to fail is to never start !

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #3 on: June 25, 2008, 08:49:25 pm »
Hi,
Your bow looks OK, but it is very square looking. If I was you, I'd round off all the edges. Round edges are stronger, and more pleasing to the eye. A square edge is more likely to lift a splinter, especially on a self bow. Your tiller looks decent, except your picture is at a bit of an angle, and it's ahrd to tell if your tiller is in fact even. Also, you need to cut your nocks at an angle!! Measure 5/8" on the back, and 1 3/4" on the belly. Draw two lines across, and then corner to corner, and cut your nocks along that line. A bit longer, and more tapered riser would probably be more comfortable too! I love maple... I'd have to say it's my favourite white wood. The grain on the piece you selected looks super.

Offline George Tsoukalas

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,425
    • Traditional and Primitive Archers
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2008, 09:15:16 pm »
Tiller looks good. I would consider using a rope and pulley rather than a tillering stick. I see some pretty significant run ups or run outs at the tips. They are areas where the grain lines on the edge go belly to back. Anymore than 2 per limb and I would back the bow with silk, burlap or linen. There's board info on my site. Jawge
http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline medicinewheel

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,629
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2008, 02:34:35 am »

yes, tiller looks good but hard to tell whether it's even; everything george and adb say i would say the same!
good bow, though!
frank
Frank from Germany...

Online Pappy

  • Global Moderator
  • Member
  • Posts: 32,206
  • if you have to ask you wouldn't understand ,Tenn.
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #6 on: June 26, 2008, 07:16:29 am »
Nice job,what the others have said.Right limb dose look a little stiff about mid limb,The main problem with the tips is it will probably cut or wear your string pretty quick.I would straighten that out if I didn't do anything else.I love the color contrast on the maple and purple heart,looks very nice. :)
   Pappy
Clarksville,Tennessee
TwinOaks Bowhunters
Life is Good

Offline Marc St Louis

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 7,877
  • Keep it flexible
    • Marc's Bows and Arrows
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2008, 08:32:00 am »
Coming along nicely.
Home of heat-treating, Corbeil, On.  Canada

Marc@Ironwoodbowyer.com

Offline John K

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,936
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #8 on: June 26, 2008, 10:58:39 am »
Thanks for all the advice guys ! It really does help. Since this is only my second bow that is not 30#'s or under i'm pretty happy with it.....Adam i will round off the edges and try and fix the nocks. I've shot about 30 arrows through it so far and after being unstrung it only took 1" os set ! That Maple is some hard stuff !!

Pappy, I like the color contrast too !!
The only way to fail is to never start !

Offline cowboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 7,035
  • Paul Wolfe. Springtown, TX
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #9 on: June 26, 2008, 11:04:48 am »
I agree what others have said on the little fixes - love that color contrast also!
When you come upon a track or trail you do not know, follow it to the point of knowing.

Offline John K

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,936
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #10 on: June 26, 2008, 11:20:16 am »
Thanks cowboy !
The only way to fail is to never start !

DCM

  • Guest
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #11 on: June 26, 2008, 11:21:36 am »
Fantastic.  Thanks for posting and being a good sport about the suggestions.

Offline John K

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,936
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #12 on: June 26, 2008, 11:46:46 am »
David, Thats why i posted it, if you can't take some criticism i think  you shouldn't post pics...i'm hear to learn.

Thanks John
The only way to fail is to never start !

Offline OldBow

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,216
  • I'm just an old retired biology teacher.
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #13 on: June 26, 2008, 12:10:38 pm »
This is a neat bow. And if you do more with it (I wouldn't), post another picture. But it is bookmarked for June Self Bow of the Month, anyway.
When you're retired, every day is Saturday

Offline John K

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,936
Re: kiln dried Maple selfbow
« Reply #14 on: June 26, 2008, 12:14:03 pm »
Don, I dout i will get anymore work done on it before the end of the month, so put it in BOM as it is  ;D

Thanks John
The only way to fail is to never start !