Arrow tapper tool remake

[DBernier]

 I have completed the remake of my arrow tapper tool. Instead of changing sandpaper I used gorilla glue and two med/fine files. I found I had to wipe the shafts off real good with Acetone to stop the teeth from clogging so much. They still do but have to clean them less often with a SS brush. I also had to add a series of 1/4 inch dia. holes the length of the channel between the files to allow the sawdust to "escape". Works good and can do a shaft about every 90 seconds or so. If you need more photos, or explanation, let me know.

Dick

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[Otoe Bow]

Dick:  Cool idea.  Any chance you can post some close ups of the tapering mechanism (files)?  Thanks for sharing your knowledge so readily.

Mike

[DBernier]

OK no problem. The first shows the two 1/2 by 1/2 inch aluminum brackets. The two files are glued to the brackets with gorilla glue. The two small screws at the nock end have a slotted hole to allow the files to pivot around the upper screws to get the desired tapper. I use a vernier to measure both ends. I also adjust the upper end by placing a parallel shaft down to the stop and then tighten the upper screws first. Then I remove the shaft and move each rail in 1/2 the difference between say, 11/32 and 5/16.  The small wood block sticking up is the mechanical stop that the nock end hits. I tapper the shaft after I create the nock tapper. The nails are just extra security to prevent the rails from slipping. The second photo shows the opposite end where the shaft is inserted and is  attached to my portable drill. There are two wooden guide rails and the piece of leather is clamped over the shaft to dampen vibration. I use a dowel about 6 inch's long to hold the shaft down in the slot as I push the shaft and it forward. I cycle the shaft, pull it in and out several times to help clear the saw dust. I clean the files after every 2 or 3 arrows. Hope this helps.

Dick

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[Justin Snyder]

Sweet little operation Dick.  I'm going to make me one.  Thanks for posting it.  Justin

[Hillbilly]

I saw it in action at Hickory, it's a slick little device.

[salad days]

Sure beats paying a hundred bucks for one. I'm gonna start one tonight. Between this, the home made spine tester, and the homemade fletching jig I can build arrows for next to nothing! At the rate I break um thats a good thing.

[Otoe Bow]

Thanks for taking the time to post that Dick.  That's pretty cool. 

Mike

[DBernier]

No problem Otoe. If it helps "get er done" that is all that counts. Remember guys to go slow pushing the shaft thru. If it binds it will snap. Did I mention the files were 10 inch?

Dick

[Pappy]

I may give that a try,I have one but it has course sand papper instead of the files.I use strips off of stick on sand paper used in a body sander but I think the files would work better.Good idea.
   Pappy

[DBernier]

Pappy, the sandpaper worked fine but I had to change it often. I was using contact cement so had to wait for it to dry etc. Contact sand paper would be much faster. The only draw back with the files is the "clogging". You have to take the files off, same as the paper, and clean them with a SS brush or and x-acto with a #11 blade. The saw dust can cake on pretty hard and then put ridges in the shaft when you keep the drill working. I use a small paint brush to clean between the files doing each shaft. I usually put some water on the effected area and the shaft swells back to normal, and the groves are gone. A "slight" sanding and your good to go. All and all it works good. BTW this was not my idea totally. I saw it somewhere and I wish I could remember where, (got CRS,    )   so I could give credit to the guy. Quote: "Nothing is new, just rediscovered." Ro Bernier, my father.

Dick

[daniel]

Smart and inexpensive, good job Dbernier!
I would always use small thumb plane to taper all my arrow shafts, doing that Your way will be so much faster though.
You mentioned You don't like sand paper on You taper tool? Have You tryed Sandblaster 3M? You can get one in ACE hardwere for about $10 roll (cheper than files I guess) will last forever couse it does't clog. I bought one like 3 years ago and is still as good as new.
How far do You taper You shafts again? how much spine they lose?

[DBernier]

Daniel, no I have not tried the 3M Sandblaster but will get some for overall sanding anyway. It is a good alternative. On the spine differential, most of my arrows are weighed and spine is very close. The spine is + or - 3# and the weight is within 25 grains, total arrow weight. I separate them in groups of 6 arrows. The loss in spine averages about 1 to 1 1/2# on 31 inch shafts centered at 26". If I move the shaft to the nock, it looses no more than  1/2 #, additional. That is an average. Hope I answered your question.

Dick

[Otoe Bow]

You know, I got to be totally honest with you, when I first started reading this, I thought it was for making the small tapers on the ends of an arrow to accept the glue on knocks and points.   Now I see that it is to give the arrow a slight taper much like cane or shoots.  It wasn't until I saw the part about the 10" files did I get it.  Now it's even cooler.

Mike

[DBernier]

Way to go Mike.    Saw the light bulb from here.   

Dick

[Otoe Bow]

   Hey,     

Mike