Flat Bow / American Flat Bow questions ?

[legend]

Hello all , I apologize if these questions have been asked before . They relate to Flat Bows and American Flat Bows .
Now hopefully I have got this right , the basic difference between the two are that the limbs on a flat bow are very similar to a pyramid bow where they taper straight from the widest part of the fades to the tips in one continuous unbroken line whereas the American flat bow have limbs where the width of the limbs run parallel from the fades roughly a third of their length then begin to taper towards the tips ? Have I got this right ?
OK , so I plan to make either of the above as a full length tip to tip 64" bow using an Ash board or a white ( English) oak board , not sure which is best .

Questions :   I have the relevant woodworking skills and bow making knowledge to build this bow but am unsure if it would work putting a slight reflex in the limbs using a heat gun , placing a 4" x 2" block under the handle section and clamping the tips while i Temper the limbs ? Is it ok for this style of bow ?

In peoples expert opinions , which of the two style of flat bows is mainly more efficient ? I am after a 27" / 28" draw at around 35lb draw weight.

any other tips ?

[willie]

the naming differences seem slight. at least to me. there are plenty of examples of primitive bows with non tapering sections befor a taper begins, It would be interesting to see if anyone can point to a true primitive prymid bow.

(Did you ask earlier about the thickness taper on a prymid bow in another thread? there should be none. of course if a bow were to have a non tapering width for a ways out of the handle, it should taper in thickness until it reaches the  transition in width taper where the same thickness/prymid begins.)

if 4x2 means the handle will set back 4" behind the tips when you are thru heat tempering, that may be a bit much to for an ash board bow.
you might tiller out the board bow straight to begin and experiment with heat tempering afterwords. I found on my first few bows that trying out (too many) multiple new ideas at the same time left me wondering where I went wrong if things did not work out as hoped.

[legend]

Hi Willie , thanks for your reply . dont know if Im reading you correctly but you said " there should be no thickness taper on a Pyramid bow ) ? I was under the impression that on such a bow the back of the bow had its thickness tapered from the end of the fades to the tips ? Im a little confused now as to my mind a pyramid bow is only another form of flat bow .

[Jim Davis]

A pyramid bow does NOT taper in thickness, only in width. No bow tapers on the back.

[legend]

Thanks Jim , I was getting a bit confused .

[legend]

So for my own understanding , if I built a 64" flat bow with the first section of the limbs from the fades being parallel , what sort of length should that section be before it starts to taper to the tips ?

[Pappy]

I usually go about 12 inches, sometimes mid limb. Pappy

[legend]

Thanks Pappy , it kind of fits in with what Ive read before but just needed confirming , Ive heard midway , just past midway so what you say gives me a rough idea .

[Pat B]

A real pyramid bow tapers only in width but not in thickness. It is difficult to build a pyramid bow with a stave because of the arched back so my understanding is a stave built pyramid bow would be a semi-pyramid bow. On the American longbows I've built the limbs are parallel out anywhere from 4" to 8" then tapering to the tips. A bow with parallel limbs most of the way out before tapering to the tips is considered an overbuilt bow. Any of these styles make good, durable bows and wood choice for me would determine which way to go.
 We all find ways to build bows that work best for us. If it works for you then it is the best. 
 Are you confusing the back of the bow for the belly. The back of the bow, the side that faces the target should consist of one continuous growth ring. That is where the strength of a wood bow is. The belly, the side that faces the archer can and should be tapered, from the handle to the tip. That is tillering, allowing the limbs to bend evenly and together as you draw the bow.
 What wood will you be using for your bow? will it be a stave type selfbow, a board selfbow or a backed bow?