I need advice on my snaky osage project please

[Bob Barnes]

I sure could use some advice on this project.  It is tillered to 24".  After dozens of pulls at 24" I heard that "tick tick" sound...   I discovered several checks in the back right in the biggest squiggle.  It makes sense to me since I'm asking the squiggle grain, that runs sideways to the limb, to bend with the limb.  The tiller is close and it hasn't changed.  It has never been pulled beyond 45#, and it's pulling about 36-37#@24" right now, so it should be about 45#@28 after a little sanding.  My thoughts are to fill the checks with super glue, and them doing a wrap of the entire area, but I want some advice from you guys that know what to do. 

[bjrogg]

Dang that is a wiggly one Bob.

I would give the super glue and a sinew wrap.

Hope you can keep it together. The bend looks great for all those wiggles.

Bjrogg

[Burnsie]

Mine did the same thing at a big squiggle, looks almost the same, cracks followed right along the grain.  I did the super glue thing, but I've been too chicken to finish out the tiller.

[Bob Barnes]

Thanks BJ.  The checks are in the squiggle about a foot from the grip on the right (top) limb...the part that is at about a 45° to the limb.  I have wrapped a few limbs with super glue and artificial sinew before, but would it be better to use hide glue and real sinew?  I'll wait until I'm sure it's the best thing to do.  I'm not in a hurry. 

[Selfbowman]

Maybe take a tad off the putter left limb also .

[bentstick54]

I’ve only made about 6 snakes Osage bows, and I think 2 failed attempts, so I’m no expert by any means. The 2 that failed were both cracks that eventually led to the edge of the bow. Looking at your 2nd photo I would guess the crack I highlighted in red looks like it possibly could continue very close to the edge. I hope I’m wrong, but that’s the spot I would really watch.

[Bob Barnes]

thanks...it could be the part to watch for sure.  I'm thinking lots of super glue, with the bow strung so that the checks are open, and then sinew wraps?

[sleek]

If I were a betting man, and sometimes I am, I'd wager those checks are on the upped limb in the inner third. Best way to handle that, is to heat harden it so it won't bend as much and change your tiller shape to one thats slightly whip tillered. Fill those cracks with super glue or my recent favorite, west system 2 part epoxy. You may need to just drop the weight down to one that it isnt overpowering those squiggles. Torsion is your enemy here, its trying to twist the limb vs bend it. If you can get it to full draw, then Id wrap it. Wrapping it in this case keeps the grenade from fragmenting, but not from going off, so you may as well leave it unwrapped until you have it tillered.

[Bob Barnes]

Kevin, like I said, it is the top limb and it is about 10" out from the grip...so it's the inner 3rds.  I agree that it's because I'm trying to make that part bend, but it's actually twisting.  Heat hardening that section is a good suggestion, but if I do that , I think I will also super glue and wrap it before I finish tillering it.  Why take the chance?  Thanks for the help.

[Hamish]

I was wondering if the stave was heat bent/heat treated a lot?  That's the only thing I can think that might have caused those cracks.

[Eric Krewson]

I think the only crack you have to worry about is the one that runs off, it could be the fatal one, the other cracks need to be filled with superglue as well.

I have over heat treated and had those kinds of cracks show up.

A sinew wrap is good, go 1" above where the crack runs out and 1" below it. I use superglue soaked serving thread for the same thing, I pull it as tight as I can without breaking the string when I do the wrap. After wrapping I soak the thread with superglue until it won't hold anymore

If your tiller is close, wrap it now, I would rather have a spot that is a little stiff in the limb than take chance on a failure with more bending. I have found that if you wrap as soon as you hear that first "tink" you can save the bow, if you keep bending it the crack will progress and the bow will be toast in spite of the wrap.

I have done a number of these "tink" bows, bows that I made that other people owned, we would be at a tournament and they would hear the tink, I would find the flaw and immediately wrap it. I did couple of bows 20 years ago that I think are still shooting, not every day shooters but shooters because the owners are trying to preserve them. 


 Here is one of my wraps, I do a whip finish with the thread like one would while serving a bowstring so the thread ends don't show.

[Del the cat]

...
I have done a number of these "tink" bows, bows that I made that other people owned, we would be at a tournament and they would hear the tink, I would find the flaw and immediately wrap it. I did couple of bows 20 years ago that I think are still shooting, not every day shooters but shooters because the owners are trying to preserve them. 

I "tink" therefore I am
Del

[Selfbowman]

Good advise Eric.

[Selfbowman]

Do you guys make the inside of the squiggles thicker than the out side of the squiggles ? I  do that to keep the mass more toward the center of the limb. Will this put less stress on the inner part of the squiggles. Or do y’all keep the limb the same thickness all the way across the limb width?

[bjrogg]

[/quote]
I "tink" therefore I am
Del
[/quote]



😂😂😂 always a funny guy in the crowd.

I really like Eric’s advice. I’m guessing you won’t want to remove any more wood from those areas tillering anyway.

I saved an elm bend through the handle with super glue and a good tight sinew wrap that I waterproofed with superglue after it shrank down and dried.


I like that the sinew gets so tight but I have used serving string like Eric said on wind checks before.

Bjrogg

PS might try getting a little more bend just past that area. Relieve some stress