Hickory stave or fire wood

[Lost Oki]

Have been slowly working on my first stave, its hickory.  I had posted pics last month.  Anyway, as I was trimming it down with an ax I had a section following the grain come off and it left a pocket.  I am concerned that if I follow the grain, I am going to end up with a hole.  Plus the grain twisted.  So is this fire wood or do I continue.

[bjrogg]

If I understand you correctly you are concerned about the hollow where the core of the tree came out?

It shouldn’t be any problem. That is going to be the belly side of your bow. The side that faces your belly. You don’t have to follow grain there. It will be under compression stress.

The other side of the stave.(the outside of the tree) should be the back of the bow . The side that faces away from you. It will be under tension stress and most woods need to have the same growth ring from one end to the other. Not all woods but most. I don’t have any experience with hickory.

You still have plenty of wood left on your belly side. If the back side (outside of tree) has the original ring from the outside of the tree. (You peel bark and cambium to reveal clean ring) then you’re good for your back.

You might be able to split it lengthwise up the center and get two. I really don’t know how well or poorly hickory splits.

For your side of bow it would be nice to follow grain but I have heard hickory is a pretty forgiving wood as far as following grain goes.

I think if I had it I would try to draw a line up center following grain and then kerf it with skill saw and split it. The kerf will help keep the interlocking grain from tearing sideway and ruining your chances for two staves.

Bjrogg

PS I’m sorry I don’t think I saw your earlier posted pictures.

[Pat B]

Looks like an upside down stave to me.

[Lost Oki]

Pat B; Upside down stave?  I am not following you could explain?  This is definitely the belly.

Bjrogg; thanks I will continue and hope for the best.  Stave is about 2 inches wide at the ends, not sure there is enough to split again.

[bjrogg]

I think Pat is a little confused as I also was.

If you were trying to chase a ring and follow the ring the stave would be upside down for that.

If you are two inches wide yes I would not try to get two staves.

I guess from the picture I thought it was wider.

In that case I would probably try to mark out my sides of my bow on the back of the stave and narrow up too close to those marks.

Then I would mark on the sides to where the limbs were a little thicker than I want finished bow to be and rasp, draw knife, or whatever tool you prefer to get it shaped to those marks.

If it continues to tear out on you then you probably will have to use a different tool. Something like a farriers rasp will not tear out long pieces.

Bjrogg

[Lost Oki]

Thanks.  Will continue with draw knife and rasp.

[Kidder]

This may be info that you don’t need, but given where I’m seeing you working on right now I’m going to say it anyways.
Flip your stave over so what was the bark side is now up. That’s the back of your bow - the side that faces away from you when you hold it.
Draw your front profile on there - your handle, width fades, taper to the tip. Remove the wood outside that however you choose, making sure the edge remains square. Then turn it on its side, and draw your side profile with the thickness taper - handle, fades into the limb, and a taper to the tip and then remove the wood outside that.
Apologies in advance if that seems like an unnecessary over simplification, but I’m with Pat in that it looks to me that you are moving wood essentially from the wrong spot or in the wrong order.

[bjrogg]

Yup what kidder said. That’s exactly what I was trying to say

Bjrogg

[superdav95]

Good advise here.   Also don’t worry too much if you end up that you don’t have enough wood to do a handle with fades and such. You could still make a good bow and just glue on a handle section separately.  Best of luck. 

[M2A]

Measure the thickness of the stave at the lowest point in that "pocket" where that ring tore out. if you have 3/4 of an inch or more, that would be plenty to do about any design. Even less but I'm being conservative. From what i see, I don't see any reason not to continue with that stave. Follow the linear grain best you can looks like a bit of snake to it but thats ok. Maybe some heat corrections later in the build to get the string lined up, maybe not. Mike       

[Lost Oki]

Thanks to all for direction.  This is my first bow from a stave, other two were Oak board bows so I have a lot to learn.  Its going to be a cold rainy day (I ain't in Georgia) here in NW Ark so I have lots of info to put to use.

[Pat B]

Sorry for the confusion from my first post but I think the other guys set you straight. Best of luck and keep us posted.   

[George Tsoukalas]

The back fo the bow has a crown and is facing done in the photos. I agree with kidder.
You tiller the belly of the bow and not the back. Jawge

[Lost Oki]

Could not get a straight line from one tip to the other that would allow enough wood for a bow.  So, I decided to mark each half as close as possible from tip from the center of the bow that would allow enough wood for a bow.  Started shaping of large end, then working belly down.  Ran into a 12-14" strip about 1/8" wide that was blackish brown in color and soft, I could cut it out with my thumb nail.  I was about 3/8" deep.  Cut it out with a knife and did not feel I had enough wood for a bow, so I trashed it.  I may be able to get a Honey locust tree to split at my son's toward the end of the month and will start over. 

[superdav95]

Sorry to hear that.  Hopefully you get something to get working on