"Lil Eddy" is ready. Bow no. 7- Sinew Backed, Copperhead Skinned Osage Recurve

[simson]

Nice work! Well, I prefer bows without a cut in shelf. but I see you have done a good job.
The unbraced pic looks very good.
In the fd pic it looks like the lower limb bends too much, have you canted the bow?
To discuss a bow it is helpful to take orthogonally pics, and unbraced, braced, fd in a row.
And I'm with Ed, smaller silencers do the job. If you have a chrony measure speed with and without the silencers, I'm sure about how you will decide.

[ssrhythm]

Nice work! Well, I prefer bows without a cut in shelf. but I see you have done a good job.
The unbraced pic looks very good.
In the fd pic it looks like the lower limb bends too much, have you canted the bow?
To discuss a bow it is helpful to take orthogonally pics, and unbraced, braced, fd in a row.
And I'm with Ed, smaller silencers do the job. If you have a chrony measure speed with and without the silencers, I'm sure about how you will decide.

Excellent…this is what I’m looking for.  Orthogonally pics??? Please explain, and I’ll try to do it.

The FD pics were me using a tripod doing a timer agains the only solid background around here that’s not the same color as the bow.  I’m trying, since this is a pic pointed up toward the sky, to can’t the bow in a manner that is perpendicular and square to the camera itself.  Tall task single-handed.  That said, The bottom limb bends more than the top, but doesn’t it HAVE to bend more to draw equally and return home at the same time?  The handle is 4” with 1.25” above the center of the bow and 3.75” below the center of the bow with 3” fades…so the bottom limb is 2.5” shorter than top limb. 

I shoot split fingers, so the bow starts 1/4” positive tiller at brace.  After a couple of shots or 20 or so 3/4+ pulls to settle it in, it becomes ~1/8” or slightly less positive tiller at a 6.5” brace. 

At my current understanding (which I admit is evolving as I learn more from folks on here and from Books) I was thinking that this configuration was what I was trying to achieve as far as dimensions and bend goes.

I am going to be making my next bows a little less center shot for sure, as this bow is giving me fits trying to get a shaft that is stiff enough with heavy heads I want to hunt with.  It is currently liking a 108-110#, 28.75” cane arrow with a 190 grain head.  I’m thinking about building out the crosses to get my arrow pointing a little left so this thing will tune better with a bit weaker shaft.

Thanks for the feedback; please keep it coming, as I’m trying my best to figure all this out to the highest degree that my brain will allow.

[organic_archer]

I’ll just chime in on the photo sharing. Use Imgur. It’s easy! You just create an account, upload your pictures (I upload mine as private/hidden albums so no one but me can see them), and then click “get photo codes” next to your photos. There will be several codes to choose from, and you will want to copy the BB Code. Paste the BB Codes for each pic directly into your posts here and you’ll get full resolution uploads. Hope this helps! Killer bow! 

[Selfbowman]

Very nice bow . Well done

[TimBo]

Orthogonal means having to do with right angles - I imagine Simon means it is easier to wrap your head around the full draw photos if you are not angling the bow up. 

Your bow looks great!  It should really do the job on an elk if you get the chance - good luck!