When working with raw bamboo or cane arrows, whether it be raw hill cane, raw switch cane or raw tonkin "Martha Stewart" tomato stakes, the nodes lay on top and under the shaft as it sits on the bow. Of the other two sides you put the strongest spined side against the bow. This is how I was taught to build cane arrows from Art Butner, one of the best cane and shoot arrow builders I've ever known. Another thing that Art always held as gospel is to use well seasoned shafting, not just dry shoots and canes.
Another thing I do is make my arrows longer, 29" to 30" for my 26" draw. In my experience this allows the arrow to get around the bow easier.
There is a lot that goes into building arrows from raw cane or shoots, from their seasoning, straightening(not necessarily as straight as you'd think), spineing the shafts, knowing the bow these arrows will shoot from and considering all aspects of that bow; degree of center shot or not, handle and grip style, draw weight at intended draw length and the shooters style of shooting. Another thing I don't think some folks consider is the amount of natural taper in each cane or shoot shaft. It all goes into making good shooting arrows.
IMO, arrows are way more complicated to build and more important than most folks give credit to. To most, the bow seems to be the critical part of the archery set up. In my mind it isn't, it is only a part of the equation. If the arrow is not set up for the bow, the shooter and the style of shooting it most likely will not shoot consistently.
All that being said, if the shooter's style of shooting, draw length, grip, anchor and release are not consistent, the same with every shot, ones shooting will not be consistent. Also, complete concentration with all these aspects and knowing where the arrow WILL go(picking the "spot") and not just shooting at the target, your shooting will not be consistent. It's not just slinging arrows but so much more.
