Tillering questions

[PatM]

A Sudbury is leaf  more willow leaf shaped, not pyramid.
 
  Mostly try to keep the belly flat and the facets removed in continuous lines from end to end.   Don't have those random chipped out sections where corners are removed in scoops almost down to the back.

[M2A]

Something that helped me was marking the limbs every 2 inches the entire length, I'd then use a digital caliper to check the thickness on each side and wright it on the belly of the bow, then i'd exercise the limbs and check with a gizmo. Using that information made it simple for me to make a better decision on where to remove material. Its not a fool proof method but helped me understand things much better. It takes some time to do this but helped me make a decent finished bow. Hope I explained that correct. The more you practice the better you get:)
Mike       

[TimBo]

Finish that sucker up!  If you mess it up, I can always send you another stave.  I would try to get the thickness taper as good as possible.  If it is a question of getting it ALMOST perfect and still hitting your weight, you might choose to proceed.  On the other hand, if you get perfect taper/tiller and end up with a 40# bow that shoots great, that's fine (and you could think about heat treating and/or piking to raise weight at that point). 

[WhistlingBadger]

Thanks for all the input, guys.  My laptop went wonky over the weekend; I could read all your stuff but it wouldn't let me reply.

I've got the width pretty well evened up, and both limbs bending equally with no remaining hinges.  I'm going to trim down the tips until they just barely start to work--they're really clunky right now--then start working with it on the tree again.  At some point I'll round off the sharp edges (how much?), and if I start noticing set, I'll heat treat.  Amazon sent me a heat gun over the weekend, so I'm ready to go there.

Still trying to figure out how to sharpen a card scraper.  Once I get the hang of that, with Timbo's promise of more staves, nothing will stop me!   

[mmattockx]

Still trying to figure out how to sharpen a card scraper. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0L4Ij-xMuNU


Mark

[TimBo]

Sounds like a good plan!  For rounding edges, people often say to make it about the size of a garden pea.  The exact amount of rounding doesn't matter as long as you do enough, but not too much!  (Something like 3/32" from the edge is probably about right...maybe start with less and see how it looks.)  You can transition to a rounder cross section as you get to the tips if you want.

[WhistlingBadger]

The exact amount doesn't matter as long as you do enough, but not too much!

Those are some words to live by, right there.

[willie]

 

At some point I'll round off the sharp edges

on the back especially, the sooner the better. I sand the rounded edges smooth also.

[WhistlingBadger]

I rounded off the back and smoothed the edges.  The curve is looking pretty good on the long string.  I think I might have taken off too much and made it too light, but maybe it'll still make a good kid's bow.    I ordered a string for it which should be in any day now, so I'll put it on the scale and find out for sure.

T