Gluing on Field tips

[Digital Caveman]

I was just checking some of my arrows, and found I could pull the field tips off of 18 of them.  They had all been superglued on some time ago.  Are there any other easy-to-use glues that would hold better?  I thought about pining the heads, but I have no way to drill through metal.

Thanks,

[Buck67]

I cut small slices of Hot Glue sticks.  Stick them inside of the arrowhead.  Heat the head with an alcohol lamp until the glue is all melted.  Stick the new head on the shaft and then dip the head in water to cool it down fast.  I rarely lose an arrowhead.  Cheap is good.

[Pat B]

Hot melt glue works. You can also run a tap into the point and thread the inside and thread them on or pin them.

[monoloco]

I’ve been using Bohning Ferr-L-Tite since the dawn of time.  Occasionally I’ll have one come loose when pulling out of a target but overall it has worked great.  I warm the stick over a candle and goop some on the shaft.  Then I place point on shaft and hover the point over flame, till the glue re-softens, at which point, wearing a leather glove, I quickly twist and shove the point down snug.  I’ve learned to slather on enough glue such that I get a little ring of squeeze out at rim of point.

[Pat B]

You have to be sure to degrease the field points. They have machine oil on them from manufacturing. I soak them in alcohol  before I mount them.

[Digital Caveman]

Thanks, I found that out the hard way. 

Now I wipe the grease out before mounting, but the alcohol method sounds better.  I tried TBIII on a half dozen and we'll see how they hold up

[Hawkdancer]

I agree with Monoloco and Pat B.  The Ferr-L-Tie is good stuff!
Hawkdancer

[bownarra]

TB3 is a wood glue no good for metal to wood.
A 24 hour general purpose epoxy is want you want. Hot melt works too but I much prefer a decent epoxy for the work time. Stay away from any 5 minute set epoxies they are weak.
BUT above all the number one reason points loosen is that an air bubble is trapped in the point
If you use taper fit points cut your shafts point taper. Push fit (no glue) a point onto the shaft, mark a pencil line around the shaft . Remove point. Take a small sharp saw (a fine hacksaw works) and cut a shallow groove up the shaft to your pencil line and a 1/16th past.
Now get degrease your points in a solvent. allow to evaporate. Heat up points, to the point where you can just keep hold of them! Get your glue ready and apply a little in the point. Clamp shaft in a vise and fit the point. I normally clamp mine in a fold of leather. Take a small hammer and tap the point, the note will change as you tap......then the magic happens and a little air bubble will travel up the groove as well as any excess glue, one final tap and you will hear that the point has fully settled onto the shafts taper.
Trust me if you do this correctly you will literally never have a point come off again.
The groove lets the excess glue and the trapped air out, these two things can work a poit lose. Its not really the glue used but the method of seating that matters most

[warpath]

Whether you use hot melt or ferrel tite, put some on the shaft first. Then I heat the point up with a propane torch pointing the flame inside the point. This burns off that oil very quickly. Then I place the hot point on the shaft twisting it. This melts the glue and distributes it evenly. The a quick dunk in some room temperature water and let sit for a few minutes and you're ready to go! I've never had an issue losing points this way. Anyone on here that has my arrows, please weigh in.

  G-Monee 

[dylanholderman]

i just use hot melt glue, mainly because i can walk into any craft/hardware stare anywhere.
i clean and roughen the inside of the taper with some coarse emery paper wrapped around a 1/8" metal rod before putting some glue either in the tip or on the shaft after i put them together i hold the tip over my heat gun to remelt the glue before pressing the tip into either the hollow of a pair of pliers or a depression on my bench, i'll hold like that for 3-5 sec before dunking in cold water.

bownarra i'll have to try cutting a groove like that the next time i go to make a set!
the reason i hold for a couple secs is because that air bubble will try to push the tip off while the glue is still soft.

[bownarra]

It is also trying to push your tip off on every shot if its there. Its that slight compression and rebound that pops the points off. When you do it like that IF there is every one movement it is moving the point further up the taper
It only takes a few seconds to do it my way. I guarantee once you've got it down you won't go back

[gutpile]

Pat hit nail on head... if you don't degrease the factory points nothing will hold them for long... ... gut