New guy question

[sleek]

What are the things that can cause hand shock? Too big of tips I know, too much inner limb bending and off timed limbs. What else can cause it?

[sleek]

Im having trouble with a bow that has hand shock so bad it feels like my index finger got hit with a hammer. Never had it that bad. So I checked the limb timing and saw the upper limb was too stiff mid limb. I got that matched to the lower and it got so much worse I considered hitting the bow with a hammer. I dont appreciate that much pain.

So I took the scraper to the lower limb and weakened it. That got the shock under control.  But still its at levels I dont accept. Im going to keep messing with the tiller little at a time until I get it right or it ceases to be a bow.

[Hamish]

What design of bow is it(stiff or bend through the handle?), how wide is the handle, does it have any padding at the grip? 

[George Tsoukalas]

I think you about hit the main ones, sleek.

But a bend in the handle bow does not necessarily have hand shock. It all depends on how much the handle bends.

Also, to add, the last 8" or so should be as narrow as possible.

Jawge

[sleek]

No padding at the grip. Stiff handled basic straight bow. 1.5 inches wide from the fade out to 7 inches, then tapers down to the tips.

I got it now down to 45#@28, it was 45@26. The lower limb was stiff by a half inch and is now weak by a quarter. Its now more friendly on the hand. Im going to drop the lower limb a touch more and see if that gets it better.

[sleek]

I think you about hit the main ones, sleek.

But a bend in the handle bow does not necessarily have hand shock. It all depends on how much the handle bends.

Also, to add, the last 8" or so should be as narrow as possible.

Jawge

Thanks Jawge, I leave the last 7 stiff and narrow, I forgot to add that

[willie]

so if you set it in the tiller tree with the pressurepoint at the saddle about where it is in the hand, and the nock point on the string about like you shoot it, does it rock when you pull? or rock in the hand when you shoot it?

[bradsmith2010]

if the bow has too much mass weight,, or is overbuilt quite a bit, it will be shocky,,

[sleek]

so if you set it in the tiller tree with the pressurepoint at the saddle about where it is in the hand, and the nock point on the string about like you shoot it, does it rock when you pull? or rock in the hand when you shoot it?

I've never been able to get an accurate answer from doing what you described, because it changes based on where I nock the arrow, and changing the nocking point hasn't had an affect on the shock. I can tell you its now within limits after getting the lower limb more weak than the upper, and thats odd in itself.

[bradsmith2010]

what is the mass weight of the bow,, and does it come close to the chart in volume 4
I have found this to be the main cause of shock in my bow building,,
when you say weaker, is that at full draw,, or at brace

ok Im just guessing cause I dont know how long the bow or draw,,
but if you cut it shorter and narrow the limbs, it will reduce the shock,,
or if you just side tiller to reduce the weight,,

its gonna shoot better with positive tiller,,,, maybe it is positive at full draw,,
a heavier arrow will help too,,

[Del the cat]

Badly shaped grip... especially with laminated bows where the back is dead flat and the corners dig into your knuckle.
Arrows too light!
Del

[Eric Krewson]

Shoot the bow upside down and see what happens. I think limb timing is the culprit in most cases, things may measure out just fine but the limbs can still have different return rates.

Without seeing the bow, I am only guessing.

[Marc St Louis]

There was a big debate here on hand-shock/limb timing several years ago.  Many were pointing at limb timing as the issue, I have never bought into that one.  I have come to believe that the way the limbs bend is part of the problem.  What I mean by that is having a bow with one limb that bends more mid-limb with the other limb bending more closer to the handle.  There should be symmetry in the way the limbs bend, when possible.

[willie]

What I mean by that is having a bow with one limb that bends more mid-limb with the other limb bending more closer to the handle.  There should be symmetry in the way the limbs bend, when possible.

Mark,
I presume you could easily see this on a tiller tree at full draw?

There was a big debate here on hand-shock/limb timing several years ago

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,6187.0.html
or
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,46111.0.html

[bushboy]

Try raising the brace height a little...