V joint

[DC]

I'm going to splice some recurves on the bow I'm working on. I'm going to use a V splice. I'm concerned about the splice sliding apart when I clamp it. I was thinking about pushing the parts together and driving a brad through them and then clamping them. The brad would keep them from slipping. I'd pull the brad out after the glue cures. While I was typing this I kind of remember hearing about putting salt or sugar or something in the joint. Anyone know anything about that? Any other ideas?

[PatM]

You don't need to worry much if your joint is good.  It needs minimal clamping pressure.  You are better off using some tape to wrap around the wide end if you think it will want to slide out.  You can use a few strips linearly as well running from the recurve up the limb. to keep it pulled together.

[dylanholderman]

agreed, the taper used on a V splice is so gradual that it's not likely to move under clamping pressure at all (even on the poorly fitted joints i've cut

[mmattockx]

I've used salt in some glue joints with mixed results. It isn't something I have found I can count on for the most part as it was too inconsistent in how well it held the pieces from slipping.


Mark

[DC]

What's the best ratio between length and width?

[bownarra]

3:1 is fine.
If you make the opening of the female part 1mm or so narrower than the width of the male part you don't even need to clamp
If you use any collagen glue then just wait a few minutes for the glue to gel and then clamp away if you need to . The parts will not move.
Another trick on things like this is to use parcel tape. A fe pieces put on under tension back and belly would hold it all in place to allow light clamping.
Another option is to clamp the limb section to a scrap board with clingfilm inbetween. Do the glue-up, fit the parts . Clamp other piece to board and then apply clamps.

[Del the cat]

The saw cut striations will act as teeth to interlock and prevent slippage.
Del

[DC]

Thanks guys, we'll see how it goes today.

[PatM]

The saw cut striations will act as teeth to interlock and prevent slippage.
Del

 If you nail the fit on the first cuts.

[DC]

The saw cut striations will act as teeth to interlock and prevent slippage.
Del

 If you nail the fit on the first cuts.

That's where I fall down It takes me a lot of fitting and fettling to sort these things out.

Just for the fun of it what portion of the joint do you cut first? The male or female? Any reason?

[PatM]

Female.  It's easier to finesse the  outside edges of the male portion.   I do generally end up working both a bit anyway.   Once the fit is good you can still score  both surfaces a bit to allow them to lock together as Del says.

[bownarra]

Female.
Make its sides flat and square then maeasure the 'gap' and add 1mm for the width of the male section.
Once you have flattened the sides of the female part only work on the male to fit.
Steam will fix any minor problems but can open the width on the female a little. So is best avoided.

[DC]

We agree. I made a test one and glued it with wood glue. It didn't slip at all. Epoxy my be a bit different. I'm making the final one a little better that 3 to one. A little less tendency to slip. I made sure my band saw table was as square to the blade as I can. Any other V joint I've made had a backing to hide one side so I could finesse one over the other but on this one both sides will show. Pressure is on

[DC]

Turned out well, I think. These are the worst sides. Recurve is to the left on both. I screwed up and left the 3tpi blade on the bandsaw(brain fade) and that's why the belly side is bad.

[bradsmith2010]

those look great