Author Topic: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review  (Read 9401 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Del the cat

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,322
    • Derek Hutchison Native Wood Self Bows
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #15 on: March 05, 2020, 02:34:55 am »
slow is good :)
Del
Health warning, these posts may contain traces of nut.

Offline Eric Krewson

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,432
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #16 on: March 05, 2020, 07:32:21 am »
If you drew a straight line between you nocks you would see you are at about a 4" draw or low brace. Until you get off the tillering string and brace the bow you won't have a clear indication of how much you are drawing the bow.

Offline mmattockx

  • Member
  • Posts: 984
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2020, 09:48:30 am »
Many start with 5"-6" droop and shorten it to slightly slack with no droop as they get closer to the point they decide to first brace.

I had about 7" of droop before that picture was taken. I don't have a tillering string yet and am using a piece of paracord, so it is stretchier than a string would be. The limbs are flexing about 5" in that last picture.

slow is good :)
Del

It is, but it tests the patience.


Until you get off the tillering string and brace the bow you won't have a clear indication of how much you are drawing the bow.

I understand that, I was just referring to the thread that willie linked to a few replies back that showed you can estimate draw weight using a slack string.


Mark
« Last Edit: March 05, 2020, 09:56:54 am by mmattockx »

Offline mmattockx

  • Member
  • Posts: 984
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #18 on: March 07, 2020, 10:41:59 pm »
Some more work today. Bow is pulled to almost 21" on the slack string, so 4" farther than the last picture.




Mark

Offline willie

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,268
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #19 on: March 08, 2020, 01:03:02 pm »
Mark,

from what I see in the pic, the left limb needs to bend more nearer the handle, and the right limb more in the outer bend area.
you have actually chosen a challenging design for a first bow, as your working bend area is constrained by the nonworking tips, and you will have to make the most out of the shorter working length.

I use a short straight edge like a business card to slide along the limbs to judge the gap. (I use my cabinet scraper)
I also use large nicholsen pipeliner file as a fine rasp to speed reduction. rough with the rasp in the areas you see as straighter, then smooth with the cabinet scraper.
Fine rasp alternatives  can also be a length of coarse beltsander belt, cut and mounted to a 1x2  to use as a rasp. the shinto rasp is another fine rasp, (and alls you really need is the replacement rasp part without the handles.) same technique, rough some then use the scraper to smooth again.


Offline mmattockx

  • Member
  • Posts: 984
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #20 on: March 08, 2020, 01:28:07 pm »
Mark,

from what I see in the pic, the left limb needs to bend more nearer the handle, and the right limb more in the outer bend area.
you have actually chosen a challenging design for a first bow, as your working bend area is constrained by the nonworking tips, and you will have to make the most out of the shorter working length.

I use a short straight edge like a business card to slide along the limbs to judge the gap. (I use my cabinet scraper)
I also use large nicholsen pipeliner file as a fine rasp to speed reduction. rough with the rasp in the areas you see as straighter, then smooth with the cabinet scraper.
Fine rasp alternatives  can also be a length of coarse beltsander belt, cut and mounted to a 1x2  to use as a rasp. the shinto rasp is another fine rasp, (and alls you really need is the replacement rasp part without the handles.) same technique, rough some then use the scraper to smooth again.

Thanks for the look. I do have a few large coarse files, never thought of them for roughing the limbs. I will have to pull one out next time I get out to the shop. I will also try the straightedge to get a good look. I intend to make a tillering gizmo but have been frozen out of my woodshop for the last couple days so that has been delayed. I am away for a few days for work, hopefully will be back in the woodshop when I return and get the gizmo made. It seems like I have enough bending going on that it is time to put it to use.


Mark

Offline willie

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,268
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #21 on: March 08, 2020, 07:13:37 pm »
forgot to mention, if you have clogging with the files, chalk or soapstone works wonders. I actually prefer files and rasps to sandpaper, as embedded grit makes for more scraper sharpening work

Offline Knoll

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,016
  • Mikey
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #22 on: March 09, 2020, 07:50:42 pm »
fwiw ... no matter how this 1st bow turns out, you've done good.
Ya chose a maybe overly challenging design and employed patience so far. Have likely learned much along the way ... all of which can be used on next project.
Good luck!
... alone in distant woods or fields, in unpretending sproutlands or pastures tracked by rabbits, even in a bleak and, to most, cheerless day .... .  I suppose that this value, in my case, is equivalent to what others get by churchgoing & prayer.  Hank Thoreau, 1857

Offline PaSteve

  • Member
  • Posts: 816
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #23 on: March 10, 2020, 04:54:33 am »
Totally agree with Knoll. Each and every bow you make will teach you something if you pay attention. Your patience will help you succeed. Once you make & properly use a gizmo the stiff spots will become obvious. You're off to a great start.
"It seems so much more obvious with bows than with other matters, that we are the guardians of the prize we seek." Dean Torges

Offline mmattockx

  • Member
  • Posts: 984
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #24 on: March 10, 2020, 09:34:36 pm »
forgot to mention, if you have clogging with the files, chalk or soapstone works wonders. I actually prefer files and rasps to sandpaper, as embedded grit makes for more scraper sharpening work

I will keep the soapstone tip in mind, I have plenty of it sitting around. Sandpaper just doesn't seem like the way to do something like this, it is clearly a fine woodworking project and decent hardwoods like the hand tools like the scraper.

FWIW, it feels like I am almost past the file/rasp point with my level of experience. The last couple scrapings made noticeable changes in the tiller and the length I am pulling to at the 30lb weight moved a fair bit. I think I am going to keep up with the scraping and try not to overshoot my target on this one and save the rasps for the next one when I know I have lots of wood left to remove.


fwiw ... no matter how this 1st bow turns out, you've done good.
Ya chose a maybe overly challenging design and employed patience so far. Have likely learned much along the way ... all of which can be used on next project.
Good luck!

Totally agree with Knoll. Each and every bow you make will teach you something if you pay attention. Your patience will help you succeed. Once you make & properly use a gizmo the stiff spots will become obvious. You're off to a great start.

Thanks for the kind words, gentlemen. I certainly have learned a bunch to this point and will do some things different on the next one. Speaking of the next one, is it bad that I am already making plans before I've finished this one?


Mark

Offline mmattockx

  • Member
  • Posts: 984
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #25 on: March 11, 2020, 06:26:25 pm »
More pictures for the entertainment of those more experienced than I (which is everyone at this point...).

First, with no weight on the string. It has a little bit of slack that is not apparent due to the stretchy nature of the paracord. If someone wants to sell me a quality tillering string now would be a great time to make your pitch!




Pulled to 20" on the much less slack string, with a fair bit more bending. The tips are very close to brace height at this point and I won't go much further before I have a string in hand and can work from full brace. I am waiting on a string because local suppliers are out of stock, amazon doesn't have what I want and I'm not ready to learn how to make strings just yet. One thing at a time...




I find it very surprising how springy the limbs feel when it is drawn, it doesn't feel dead or sluggish at all. I also don't regret aiming for a 30lb draw weight to begin building strength and technique with. 30lb is going to be plenty challenging to hold at the start. Those who start with a 45+lb bow are kidding themselves if they think they aren't overbowed and learning bad habits with that much weight.


Mark
« Last Edit: March 11, 2020, 06:33:23 pm by mmattockx »

Offline bushboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,256
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #26 on: March 11, 2020, 06:36:00 pm »
Looks almost ready to brace.mind you I build bows a little different than most..


Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline bushboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,256
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #27 on: March 11, 2020, 06:38:33 pm »
I would get the left inner limb bending and go for it .right looks good so far.
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline willie

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,268
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #28 on: March 11, 2020, 11:43:25 pm »
I would get the left inner limb bending...........right looks good so far.

I agree about the bend. Some bowyers make it a rule not to pull the bow any further until there are no spots bending more than any other spot on either limb.
Did you see the brace pic of bushboys recent moose bow? your limbs are similar in design so they should show a similar working limb profile. you can even do your adjustments without drawing as far as you already have.


btw, Nice bow, bushboy

Offline mmattockx

  • Member
  • Posts: 984
Re: Maple Board Bow Tiller Review
« Reply #29 on: March 12, 2020, 12:00:12 am »
I agree about the bend. Some bowyers make it a rule not to pull the bow any further until there are no spots bending more than any other spot on either limb.
Did you see the brace pic of bushboys recent moose bow? your limbs are similar in design so they should show a similar working limb profile. you can even do your adjustments without drawing as far as you already have.

I will keep working on that inner limb until it is bending more and not take any more weight off until it is.

Is this the bow you are talking about?:  http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,67285.0.html

I am finding the forum search function is beyond hopeless so I hope that is the one.


Mark