Veggie oil for finish.

[IrishJay]

Anyone ever use vegetable oil for a finish? I'm trying to finish up a Christmas gift bow and I'm out of tung and mineral oil. Money's a little tight right now so I'm trying to avoid buying anything. My main concern with veggie oil os it turning rancid and making the bow stink.

I have some spray-on satin finish poly, but I'd really prefer an oil finish on this bow.

[IrishJay]

I also have some candles I could melt down for wax, bit they're pink. Anyone know a way to distill liquid wax to get the dye out of it?

[hoosierf]

Car wax, olive oil, motor oil, gear oil, gun oil, shoe paste, mink oil.  I’ve used just about every kind of oil you can imagine. I think veggie oil liquid might be too light to give much protection but I bet crisco would be okay.  Wax last after all of the oil soaks in.   I also seem to recall veggie oil liquid being very sticky.

[bobnewboy]

I’ve had some good results with walnut oil that is sold for eating / over salads in supermarkets here in the UK. Fairly cheap and goes a long way, but it does need some UV to set it properly - it polymerises in sunlight which is why there’s a warning on most bottles to store it somewhere dark .

The best results seem to follow fine sanding with a fine grit paper, and applying the oil as hot as you can use it. I heat it up in a ceramic mug in the microwave. A couple of teaspoons full are pretty hot in 90 seconds or so.  Beware though - don’t heat it in a plastic container as the oil can really get very very hot and destroy the container!

Cheers, Bob

[Mesophilic]

If you're looking for a more lasting finish, some food grade oils will actually polymerize with exposure to oxygen, similar to tung.   Flax (linseed) seed oil would be my first choice followed by walnut oil.  Regular vegetable oils will instead go rancid with time and oxygen. I'd use a homemade paste wax before regular vegetable oil or crisco.

[PatM]

Oils  are drying or non drying.  You want an oil that dries.

 There's any number of oils you can  readily get your hands on for very little money.

[Pat B]

You'd be better off with the spray poly.

[GlisGlis]

boiled lineseed oil with a 20% turpentine and maybe 5% vinegar
turpentine for a deeper absorption
vinegar for preservation against mold
best if you make many thin layers because a heavy coat will make lumps and will dry very slowly

[IrishJay]

What about mineral oil or baby oil?

[bradsmith2010]

it will work if you wax over it after it soaks in,,
it will be ok,, just not the most protection, but it will bring out color of the wood,,,,

[SLIMBOB]

What about a good burnishing?  A few of my oldest bows have no finish on them other than that.  I wont hunt in the rain with them, but other than that, no problem.  I have done crisco and other cooking oils.  Doesn't last and too hard to clean up when you do put a finish on them.  That's what I have seen. 

[IrishJay]

I just found an anciently old can of tung buried in a box in my shop. It's pretty much a dried lump in the bottom of the can, but I heated the can and it seems to be re liquifying. Is it usable it I "melt" it back to liquid?

[bradsmith2010]

I dont have experience with that, but if you get some liquid it should work,, wont hurt to try,, u could always sand it off if not what you want,,
the burnishing is a good idea too,,
just the cheapest spray krylon,, would look ok, its just not very durable,, like used for art work,,

[IrishJay]

On the upside the bow shoots great, 42#@28" but feels very light and smooth in the draw. Decent speed and shot two shafts-touching 🎯 bullseyes out of its 1st 6 arrows at 10 yards.

Just need to get a finish on it and maybe shoot it it a little more before I give it to dad for Christmas.

[PatM]

What about mineral oil or baby oil?

Mineral oil doesn't dry.  Baby oil is just mineral oil, usually with scent applied.

  Some people still use it but most prefer a finish that doesn't feel oily.