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[PatM]

I like to add up the total working limb and use that to calculate the max draw length.

How do you calculate based off that?

 I add up the total of the two limbs that actually are bending to any degree and figure that the max draw should approach that, if not equal it.

[DC]

Please keep a log and post it of your draw weight and length as you go. Also, pics please.

I'm not sure what the log will show. It will just be 40@10, 40@11 etc. What else do you want? Yup on the pictures.

Are you familiar with Badgers method of no set tillering?

Yup

[DC]

Oh, I have used maple backed yew a few times. I prefer boo backed but that may be mostly aesthetics. I think the effectiveness of a Maple backing depends on the Maple much more than a Boo backing. Put that another way, you can tell if the boo is good by looking at it(most times) where as maple may have more runout in one piece than the next and it won't show that much.

Ok, so it sounds like maple is a decent match for yew, and you are familiar with it. Awesome.

Sorry if i am butting too much into your build here. I love this design, and its killing me im not actually there helping build it. I hope my excitement of this isnt overbearing.

I had to go back and reread the last couple of pages. Things were coming in too quick.

[DC]

Please keep a log and post it of your draw weight and length as you go. Also, pics please.

I'm not sure what the log will show. It will just be 40@10, 40@11 etc. What else do you want? Yup on the pictures.

Are you familiar with Badgers method of no set tillering?

Is this related to the log. Maybe I'm not so familiar. More info please

[sleek]

Please keep a log and post it of your draw weight and length as you go. Also, pics please.

I'm not sure what the log will show. It will just be 40@10, 40@11 etc. What else do you want? Yup on the pictures.

Are you familiar with Badgers method of no set tillering?

Yup

Its up to you as it really takes forever, im just looking for a record to compare my builds to, to see how the design holds up on my shorter bows compared to longer ones.

What im asking is this:


Pull the bow to 11 inches. Record weight. Then pull to 12, record weight. Then pull back to 11 AGAIN, re-record its weight, then go to 13. Its a forward 2 back one type of thing, all the way to 40 pounds. Then scrape and start over again at 11 inches.

What this does is shows how the bows energy storage capabilities change as draw length is increased, and exactly where set starts to take place on the draw.  If you were 28 pounds at 11, and 31#@12, then pull back to 11 inches again, and you are NOT at 28 but say 26 now, then set happened right there.

All these FD curves you plot as the bow advances through the tiller process shows alot. It can help design better ones. Like, you see early draw weight drop,  and that stored energy doesnt pick up again until later in the draw, you know that perhaps mkre reflex or longer recurves may help. You can see when the recurves start to open up and the stresses it places on the wood, and many other things. Also, I want to compare this data to my bows as I make them. Id like a comparrison between longer version and my shorter ones, especially of different woods.

[sleek]

I like to add up the total working limb and use that to calculate the max draw length.

How do you calculate based off that?

 I add up the total of the two limbs that actually are bending to any degree and figure that the max draw should approach that, if not equal it.

So you ONLY account for working length, not over all, not even levers?

[PatM]

That's right since those are the only parts actually under true stress.

[DC]

Its up to you as it really takes forever, im just looking for a record to compare my builds to, to see how the design holds up on my shorter bows compared to longer ones.

What im asking is this:


Pull the bow to 11 inches. Record weight. Then pull to 12, record weight. Then pull back to 11 AGAIN, re-record its weight, then go to 13. Its a forward 2 back one type of thing, all the way to 40 pounds. Then scrape and start over again at 11 inches.

I'm confused. When do I start this? What if I get 40# at 11". I can't go over 40#, that's my target weight. Sorry, I'm missing something here.

[DC]

I'm rereading a bunch of no set tillering posts. In one Badger said,". Say you just braced the bow, check your weight at say 18", now excercise at 19", check weight at 18, excersice at 20" check weight at 18, excercise at 21" check weight at 18". Do this all the way to target weight at about 24'. "

Do you remove any wood during this?

[sleek]

I'm rereading a bunch of no set tillering posts. In one Badger said,". Say you just braced the bow, check your weight at say 18", now excercise at 19", check weight at 18, excersice at 20" check weight at 18, excercise at 21" check weight at 18". Do this all the way to target weight at about 24'. "

Do you remove any wood during this?

You remove wood like you normally would, when you see a tiller problem, or you hit your draw weight and need more scrapes to pull further, nothing special there. This is all about how to approach your draw weight on the tree, and it ONLY works on a bow that has just had wood freshly removed and the limbs have not been flexed yet. All flexing 100% must happen on the scale.

[sleek]

That's right since those are the only parts actually under true stress.

So, a bow for you that has 24 inches working limb that is 58 inches long, you will pull it the same draw length as a bow that has 24 inches working limb and is 66 inches long?  You dont account for the string angle at the tips, and radius of bend at the working section of the bow? Is this just to keep things simple and safe?

[PatM]

That's right since those are the only parts actually under true stress.

So, a bow for you that has 24 inches working limb that is 58 inches long, you will pull it the same draw length as a bow that has 24 inches working limb and is 66 inches long?  You dont account for the string angle at the tips, and radius of bend at the working section of the bow? Is this just to keep things simple and safe?

  Yes, with adjustments to width of the working limb to compensate.

[sleek]

That's right since those are the only parts actually under true stress.

So, a bow for you that has 24 inches working limb that is 58 inches long, you will pull it the same draw length as a bow that has 24 inches working limb and is 66 inches long?  You dont account for the string angle at the tips, and radius of bend at the working section of the bow? Is this just to keep things simple and safe?

  Yes, with adjustments to width of the working limb to compensate.

Obviously that works, but it is being overly cautious. I dont think you are getting everything out of the bows that they have to offer either.  That's fine of course, not nocking it, but a lot more performance can be had doing it this way.

[PatM]

That's right since those are the only parts actually under true stress.

So, a bow for you that has 24 inches working limb that is 58 inches long, you will pull it the same draw length as a bow that has 24 inches working limb and is 66 inches long?  You dont account for the string angle at the tips, and radius of bend at the working section of the bow? Is this just to keep things simple and safe?

  Yes, with adjustments to width of the working limb to compensate.

Obviously that works, but it is being overly cautious. I dont think you are getting everything out of the bows that they have to offer either.  That's fine of course, not nocking it, but a lot more performance can be had doing it this way.

 You must be misunderstanding.  I am bending the working limb more than anyone recommends.

[sleek]

That's right since those are the only parts actually under true stress.

So, a bow for you that has 24 inches working limb that is 58 inches long, you will pull it the same draw length as a bow that has 24 inches working limb and is 66 inches long?  You dont account for the string angle at the tips, and radius of bend at the working section of the bow? Is this just to keep things simple and safe?

  Yes, with adjustments to width of the working limb to compensate.

Obviously that works, but it is being overly cautious. I dont think you are getting everything out of the bows that they have to offer either.  That's fine of course, not nocking it, but a lot more performance can be had doing it this way.

 You must be misunderstanding.  I am bending the working limb more than anyone recommends.

I was mis understanding. So, you would say his 14 inches of working limb allows a 28 inch draw?