Nocking point with no shelf

[DC]

I didn't want to hijack the other nocking point thread so I started this one. I don't use a shelf. I start with the nocking high and then lower it bit by bit until I feel it go by my knuckle, then back up a bit. What I'm starting to wonder about is if this is even close to a decent way of setting it? Is there a solid relationship between nock height and the fletching hitting your finger? Let's say that I adjusted my nock height for the best flight I could get but that meant the fletching was whacking my knuckle. First, could this even happen or does "good flight" automatically mean that the fletch will clear my knuckle?  Should I raise the nock point and hope for the best?

[Pat B]

DC, generally there is a "sweet spot" as to where the nock goes. It is a bit different for each archer. Move the nock up or down a little and see where your sweet spot is.
 I place the arrow pass at the top of my hand with my middle finger at the mid point on the bow(about 1 1/2" above center) then I start with my nocking point about 3/8" above perpendicular but like I said before I nock my arrow above the nock point.

[DC]

So in your case you would measure your 3/8" to the top of your nock point. Sorry to be picky but when it's suggested to move your nock point 1/16" at a time and the nock point itself is about 1/8" wide where you measure from and to becomes important.

[DC]

Here's the bow I'm messing with. My favourite at the moment. It's got 4-500 shots through it and now it has about 1/4" negative tiller. You can see it in the picture. The string is parallel with the white line. I think I've had to move the nock point up to keep the fletch away from my knuckle. The nock point is 3/4" from perpendicular to the bottom on the nock point. I put the arrow under. That seems a little excessive to me. If I retiller to 1/8" positive what's going to happen to the nock point and knuckle whacking.

[Woodely]

DC, generally there is a "sweet spot" as to where the nock goes. It is a bit different for each archer. Move the nock up or down a little and see where your sweet spot is.
 I place the arrow pass at the top of my hand with my middle finger at the mid point on the bow(about 1 1/2" above center) then I start with my nocking point about 3/8" above perpendicular but like I said before I nock my arrow above the nock point.

I basically do the same then adjust the nock height to get decent arrow flight.  Its all trial and error, no point in using a measuring device.  For arguments sake I have it done it on so many bows that I usually get the nock height perfect from the get go.

"like I said before I nock my arrow above the nock point."  why do you nock the arrow above the point.?

[Pat B]

When I started shooting instinctively years ago I read about the guys from the 1940's that used back quivers and could pull an arrow from the quiver, find the index at the cock feather and lay the arrow nock on the string and slide it down to the nock, draw and shoot all in one easy motion. I always thought that was cool. I don't use a back quiver nor do i quick draw and shoot like that but I have always nock above.

[DC]

I turned the bow upside down and put the string on the other way. The arrow pass is too wide this way but I don't think that matters for this test. I shot it and the fletch didn't hit my knuckle. I kept screwing down the nock point until it the fletch hit my knuckle. I got it down to 3/8"
So
with 1/4" negative tiller I needed 3/4" of nock height.
with 1/4" positive tiller I needed 3/8" of nock height
or
More positive tiller will move your nock point down and vice versa.
Boy I've wanted to know that for a while It's a good day when I learn something.

I don't know if this makes any difference in the long run but it's been bothering me to have the arrow tipped so far forward when I nock it. So I can retiller and lose some weight or turn it upside down and recarve and recover the handle and keep the draw weight.

[Woodely]

Not sure if this off topic but does anyone use a shelf or arrow pass exactly dead center on the bow..?  In my mind its like building an Asymmetrical bow.  The balance point is so much different than the conventional.   

[DC]

If you put the arrow pass dead center then your hand will be quite a way off center. This is one of those derned of you do and derned if you don't things. Either your hand or the arrow or both are off center. If you could figure a way of shooting between your ring and traffic fingers you may be on to something

[Woodely]

If you put the arrow pass dead center then your hand will be quite a way off center. This is one of those derned of you do and derned if you don't things. Either your hand or the arrow or both are off center. If you could figure a way of shooting between your ring and traffic fingers you may be on to something

The yumi bows are unequal length, maybe they are shooting between the ring and traffic fingers... 

[Pat B]

Where the arrow pass is doesn't matter as long as the bow is set up to shoot from that position.
My knowledge of Yumi bows(very limited) is that the very asymmetrical set up of a Yumi bow is actually tillered as 3 separate bows and that is unlike the bows we build.

[bradsmith2010]

DC,, I have the same experience, if my tiller is even or negative,, it hits my hand or I have to raise the nocking point to compensate,, that being said,, if its a character bow and difficult to judge the braced tiller, if I shoot it and its hitting me,, then I make the tiller more positive to get good arrow flight with a reasonable nocking point,, I have also found that the shorter the bow ,, the more critial or sensative tiller the bow shooting well, I have had bows with negative tiller that were longer,, and they dont seem to mind so much or at all,, but the shorter ones have to have the right amount of positive tiller to get the arrow come off the bow smooth for me,,even if the tiller looks right ,, but the bow the arrow is hitting my hand,, I know I have some adjustment to do,,,

[Woodely]

Where the arrow pass is doesn't matter as long as the bow is set up to shoot from that position.
My knowledge of Yumi bows(very limited) is that the very asymmetrical set up of a Yumi bow is actually tillered as 3 separate bows and that is unlike the bows we build.

Can you be more specific about the "tillered as 3 separate bows"  ie.   how is it done..?  Why..?  wont a normal tiller job do the trick..?

I know some of you guys like shooting off the hand,  but why do it if the arrows are htting your hand..?  I  tried it a couple times and decided I would use a shelf, all my bows have a shelf albeit some small but still a shelf.

I always thought that if your arrows are going to high ;  raise the nock point..?

[Pat B]

I've never tillered a Yumi but have read about them being tillered as 3 separate bows. Maybe you could contact Yaap at Yumi Bows and he can explain the tillering.
 If the arrow is hitting your hand when you shoot you may need to adjust the nock point and/or get the right spined arrow. Because my skin has gotten so thin I started using a Floppy Rest on my bows. It's just like shooting off the hand but with protection.

[Woodely]

" If the arrow is hitting your hand when you shoot you may need to adjust the nock point and/or get the right spined arrow."   The odd one hitting the odd time.  Same goes for an Armgaurd the odd one hitting the odd time,  so now I wear a guard regardless to many welts on my arm.