Osage take down

[n2everythg]

Beautiful. simply beautiful.
now i have another on my list of 'have to try and build it'
love that take down system.
nice job
n2

[venisonburger]

Great looking bow, I'm dyin to try a takedown, this summer for sure. You sure make a nice looking bow.
VB

[Pat B]

She's a beauty Pappy. Braced, unbraced and full draw are right on. I had a takedown sleeve til a few weeks ago. Sent it to Justin because all I did is look at it for a few years. I think Chris Cade gave it to me.  I would like to try a takedown sometimes. It would be very convenient.    Pat

[Pappy]

Thanks guys,I appreciate it,Lennie the selves fit nice,I just cut down the handle so the brass
would fit on easily and glued them with 2 part epoxy.The brass fits flush on the ends with the handle
you cut off,so be sure you have the bow the length you want when you but the 2 handles togeather.Then put the glue on and slid the brass on each limb.I wanted the bottom limb to slid out ,but I guess it wouldn't matter what ever you prefer.Then glue the steel sleeve to the brass
on the top limb,it goes up flush with the top of the brass.I did slid the bottom limb part way in the steel as soon as I put it on so I could be sure the limbs lined up,I had the fit loose enough
to where you could twist it a little so I could be sure I got it flat and lined up tip to tip.It
slides in and out pretty easy,I did put a little white grease on the inside of the steel and it works great nice suction fit,when you give it a pull to take it apart it pops.It slides togeather easy.
   Pappy

[NOMADIC PIRATE]

Classic Pappy bow

[tom sawyer]

I thought it looked like your sleeve was brass on both ends, I didn't know they did it that way.  It'd be fun to have different lengths of middle sleeve, to change the bow's n/n length if you wanted.

Did you spend a lot of time getting the fit close on the sleeves or did you just count on filling gaps withy the epoxy?  And how did you prevent the epoxy from running out the bottom of the sleeve?  I suppose you just used the sleeve to trace the outline on the end of each end and then worked it down 2" by eye?  Cut it with a bandsaw or use a rasp?

[Pappy]

I tried to get it preety close ,but planed on the glue to fill.When I glued the steal sleve on the top limb I just went light with the glue and wiped it out as soon as I had it on wit a rag with thinner on it.then sliped the bottom in about 1/2 way up and made sure it was all lined up and held it,don't take long for the epoxy to set.Never thought about a different lenigth steel sleve.And yes I fit it by
eye and done it with a file.Of course the handle was already small because they cam off other bows.
I just traced the outside of the sleve and made it a little smaller for I.D. and check it offten till I
had it where I could put the brass on and off fairly easy.I didn't want to froce it on and have to beat
it back off and bur it up or dent or bend it the fit in the steal sleve is a tight fit.You won't have a problem,if I can do it anyone can.  I like it so well I might even cut a good bow in half and do another.
     Pappy
   

[Bent Rig]

Very nice Pappy !!

[artcher1]

I was wondering about the double brass inserts as well. I'm doing one right now for a friend and the kit came with double brass inserts. Takedowns I done in the past only had the one brass insert so I figured someone made a misstake by sending two. No instructions with the kit so needless to say I only used the one like I done in the past.

On the brass insert end butt side I cut my wood 1/32" short so I could fill it with epoxy for a good seal. On the steel sleeve side I cut the wood a 1/16 short for an epoxy seal also and then used pre-cut gasket paper over that. As you can imagine, if you coat both surfaces of the metal sleeve and the wood handle and slide them together then you'll wind up with a mess of epoxy inside the sleeve. To get around that I just coated the handle good with epoxy but in addition to that I mounded a good portion of epoxy on the butt end so that once the sleeve was in place I could just heat the sleeve/epoxy with the heat gun and the mounded portion of epoxy flowed backward around the sleeve. I then placed a gasket seal over the wet epoxy. Will try to put up some pics later.-ART B

[artcher1]

Here you go!-ART B

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[tom sawyer]

Thanks for the technical stuff fellas.  Makes it less intimidating to try.

One more question, what did you do to make sure the tips of the two ends lined up well?  Seems like a little play on the handle end would translate to a lot out at the tips.  Not that any of my bows line up that well.

[OldBow]

You rule on this one, Pappy. Great craftsmanship and Great Idea. Hmmm, "Great Idea" might be a good name for a bow such as this one.
Looking forward to seeing this one at the end of the month.

[artcher1]

For me, I estimate my center line and lay the handle off accordingly. But I don't worry about the tips lining up initially. That can be corrected very easily using heat later on. But squaring the handle to the limbs is another story. Here a good eye helps, along with a little slack in the sleeve/insert.

Sorry Pappy, didn't mean to hijack your thread. -ART B

[Pappy]

Not a problem Artcher,I like to see other ideas,I went into this in the dark.Lennie
I did what Arcther said on the tips.I had them close and once I strung it I made a little
adjustment.Lovr the heat gun.  Thanks everyone glad yall liked it.
   Pappy

[Marc St Louis]

Very nice Pappy. I've never done one like that and was wondering how the fit is. I know that there is some creaking when I brace and pull back the string the first time with the method that I used for the takedowns I made. How about that method. Do they creak at first?