Precarves, just a heads up, now for the fix

[Eric Krewson]

I picked up a "deal" on a precarve kit, just about half price. I started it the other day and found out the lock inlet was cut abut 1/4" too far back and 1/4" too low. I moved the barrel back enough to get a 1/4" touch hole liner in in-front of the breech plug. I inletted the lock plate as high as I could with the existing inlet so as not to have a huge gap at the bottom of the plate but I am not even close to having the pan on a barrel flat. I can drop the barrel some but even that will be iffy.

The purpose of my post is to emphasize the importance of NEVER ordering a precarve kit with the lock inlet precut, it is far better to do your entire lock inlet yourself.

You are safe with a precut lock inlet on a Kiebler kit as they as close to perfect as one can buy and perfectly located.

[Stoker]

Good info..
Thanks Leroy

[Mike Yancey]

If you drop the barrel down very much you will probably get into the ramrod channel. You will probably have to do what I did. That's way low!

[looper]

Eric, I've been reading the replies to your thread on ALR, and have to say that a lot of guys are giving you a lot of hasty advice.  Personally, I think the problem is that the barrel wasn't inletted all the way down. That's really not too big of a deal, though.

You said there is 5/16" of web at the breech. That's a lot of extra meat in there. I'd drop it down to 1/8". That would make up 3/16". You can get back the other 1/16" by drilling the touch hole slightly below center.  With the swamp on that barrel, you'll still have enough left for a 8-32 front lock bolt without getting into the barrel channel if you hug the barrel.

Is the lock plate now in the correct position fore and aft?

[Eric Krewson]

The lock plate is in the right position fore and aft, I moved the barrel back a bunch to get teh pan in the right place in relation to the breech face.

I will make this thing work one way or another.

[Eric Krewson]

I was going to trash this stock but decided I had nothing to lose by trying to fix it. I will trash the stock if I can't completely hide the fix.

Here is the gap I am trying to fix;

[Eric Krewson]

I started by cutting another matching piece of curly maple to fit in the lower part of the lock molding, getting a perfect fit was a chore.

[Eric Krewson]

Glued in place with unibond, hopefully I will have an invisible glue line;

[Eric Krewson]

I have a  pretty good glue line.

[Eric Krewson]

I think this is going to work, I cut thin lock moldings and can get right up against my glue line and have the right width for my lower panel.

[JW_Halverson]

Who made the pre-carve?

Looks like you can make a tolerable glass of lemonade from this lemon.

[Eric Krewson]

Rather than bash them openly I sent you a PM.

[Mike Yancey]

Great fix!

[Eric Krewson]

I have the lock plate mostly down;



I also have the pan close to where it needs to be, I may move the barrel back a little more.



The lock internals are going to be a challenge, I may try to inlet for them with the lock assembled, it won't be a pretty job with everything already cut for the former lock position.

[dinorocks]

Nice save Eric!  Over the past few years I have been shooting a couple production flintlocks and your post has helped me to continue on the direction of my own build.  Both flintlocks I have don't fit me as well as a friends custom gun (he has a similar physical build as me)...hopefully my first build happens sooner than later although I think I have quite a bit more to learn.  I did, however, receive my second lock dismantling lesson...all I need now is a mainspring vise and I'll be ready for action!  (Please let me know if anyone has an extra they would consider parting with :-)

Dino