Method for testing hafted trade points?

[Mesophilic]

Gentlemen, after years of dreaming and many disappointments applying...I finally got drawn for archery elk.
First hunt no less!

I may not be able to make a bow that I feel comfortable with at this stage, but I can make my arrows.

Do any of you have a tried and true method for testing hafted trade points?  I've made about a half dozen differing styles.    So far I've hafted half of them and they're standing up nicely against 3D critter targets and the dirt around the targets from misses.  Shooting along side some name brand glue on broad heads, and the shafts, targets, and dirt don't seem to notice the difference.

Thanks, guys.

[PEARL DRUMS]

If they stand up to a foam 3D target and dirt and dont wince, then you wont have a problem with them. They only need to work once. I use real sinew and epoxy applied with a brush. They dont come off.......ever

[archeryrob]

Yea, like Pearl said, if you are shooting them into something and it doesn't split the arrow and the head doesn't twist sideways, you are good.

One of the best ways is to set the head and stand it on the broadhead tip and spin the arrow. If you have the head not aligned with the shaft and balanced you will notice it clearly at this point.

I copied some Susquehannock copper points I saw that had holes to lash them to the shaft. They were triangle points, but I increased the cut angle and added the tang to strengthen it. I use a couple pieces of leg sinew to lash the broadhead in without glue or anything. I can shoot in the dirt or what ever and if it comes loose, dulls or gets messed up I can change it and be ready to use the arrow in a day again.


I personally think you sound like you just need more confidence in your setup. I would hang a 2x4 scrape over your foam deer and shoot for it. You are not going to hit anything this hard on the deer/elk. The trade point probably won't come out without needing to be relashed, but once you see you arrow destroying wood and not breaking you'll have plenty of confidence to draw down and release on an elk. You'll also learn if you arrows have a weakness and improve them if you do. Just split the 2x4 scraps and get you arrow back out if it sinks deep.

[osage outlaw]

Can you post some pictures of your points?  Do they have side notches?  I made some with side notches.  I killed a deer with them but the notches caught the tissue and hurt the penetration.  I won't use that style any more. 

[ntvbowyer1969]

I test mine in a block target. They should hold up to shooting them all you want. the sinew might start to fray a little but just rewipe with hide glue resharpen and away you go for elk.

[Mesophilic]

Here's a gew of mine.  The top ones are obviously the commercial glue on points.  The one in the 7 to 8 o'clock position is the one I'd like to use.  It's  a thicker steel, about 160 grains with all the holes, 1 1/8 inch wide, has a very robust convex grind and a distal taper.  I also ground in a step down toward the tang thst I plan to butt up against the shaft as a second point of contact.  But just in the prototype amd testing stage right now.

I intentionally didn't wrap the hafting very far down to push the boundaries a little, likewise didnt set the points as far in to the shaft as I will for the real deal, again, to see how much stress both the point and shaft can take.  So far so good.

The string wrapped ones were done with black cotton twine soaked in epoxy.  Personally I don't  see any improvement over sinew and it's alot messier/more work, so that option will be discontinued.

[Mesophilic]

. I use a couple pieces of leg sinew to lash the broadhead in without glue or anything. I can shoot in the dirt or what ever and if it comes loose, dulls or gets messed up I can change it and be ready to use the arrow in a day again.

I had that same intent when I started this project, but the first shot into the foam critter, I pulled out the shaft and lost the point. 

[archeryrob]

I use old grain bags stuffed with walmart bags as broadhead stops and just hang them right before hunting season. I only practice with BH's just before the season to verify they fly right and I am on target.

[jimmi the sammi]

Buy 2   4'X8' sheets of pink building foam.  Cut them in half then glue the 4   4'X4' pieces together with construction caulk gun glue.  Use the glue only around the outside edges NOT in the center of the target.  This target will stand up to commercial broadheads, trade points and stone points and will not grab and hold the points.  I practice using this target with my hunting arrows with all of the above points.  The target has lasted many years.
I use plastic epoxy to glue in trade points and stone points then wrap with chewed sinew.  After the sinew has dried it gets coated with Massey finish to help waterproof.

[Mesophilic]

Thats good to know.  I used the blue foam and never again.  Shafts and points seem to fuse to the foam.  Maybe the friction melted yhe foam?

[jimmi the sammi]

I think the blue foam is a "harder" material.  I have used the yellow foam also with good results.  It seems that the cheaper the foam the less "hard" it is.  The white stuff breaks down too fast but the yellow and pink work good as targets.