Best glue for tips?

[loefflerchuck]

 I've found super glue does not always last a long time as far as keeping horn or wood sections added to the tips of the bow. Epoxy usually works and just started using tb3 and so far none have failed. I'm talking about sections glued to the back used to cut knocks into. I've never had a handle splice fail on me, but there is a lot of strain on the tips from the string.  I don't want to worry about a tip shearing off during shooting after 1500 shots or so.
 I want to know what works best for you. Also totally smooth surface or shallow grooves.

Thanks for your help. 

[PEARL DRUMS]

I use nothing but Loctite Pro, zero glue failures over 100 plus bows. Its not cheap glue, but very worth it.

[Pat B]

I've used super glue, thin and gel, TBII, TBIII and 2 ton epoxy for tip overlays and haven't had a failure.

[osage outlaw]

I use the loctite superglue on all my tips.  I get perfectly smooth and mating surfaces.  I spread some glue on each piece and then put them together.  I wrap them in rubber bands the entire length of the overlay to apply even pressure on it.  No failures for me yet. 

[wizardgoat]

I like to use a good thick superglue, but have used epoxy as well.
I’ve only ever had one horn overlay fail, from being too thin I think

[bubby]

I use the same as Pearlie and Clint, never had a failure, but if you're not sold on it get some smooth on

[BowEd]

Chuck....I've dropped bows from a 10' height off a balcony onto cement/falling 6' off a bow rack onto a tiled cement floor and smacked them into limbs while shooting and hav'nt had a smooth on tip overlay of horn or wood pop off yet,and I shoot my bows a lot with fast flight.I would'nt reccomend the testing procedure though....lol.Roughened up surfaces of at least 60 grit is best for that stuff.Sized well with adequate pressure of a good spring clamp or locking hand clamp,but if buying a can of smooth on just for tip overlays the rest of the can could go bad before it gets all used up.I have had them pop off with super glue though and 2 ton epoxy even more so.

[Springbuck]

  I'm with those who mentioned LocTite.  There are several "reinforced" superglues on the market, with ingredients added to increase toughness.  Look for the ENHANCED superglue, not just gel or regular.

 LocTite may be the best of them, though recently I have bought a couple bottles of this new (to me) stuff called DAP RapidFuse at Lowe's, and that's been great.

TB II AND III have worked great for me, too, but by that stage I'm usually super eager to get finishing the bow and don't want to wait that long.

[Mesophilic]

I use West Sysyems G Flex epoxy.  Used it for years attaching knife handles.  Properly used, with some scoring or texturing of the mating surfaces it does not let go.  When I make an occasional mistake gluing in knife scales, I can eventually fracture the scales off but handle material and epoxy is still attached to the knife and must be ground off.

[Badger]

   I don't think tips are under a lot of stress. I often glue on temporary tips for tillering and they often stay on while shooting the bow in. I usually use tightbonb3 but have used anything from gorilla glue to super glue. I have had a couple of tips pop off when dropping a bow on its tip over the years. My permanent tips I use either smooth on or tightbond

[PatM]

G-Flex is outstanding for toughness and shock absorption.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Pat, how fast does it dry?

[PatM]

It's a typical overnight Epoxy.  Initial cure in 7-10 hours, full cure in 24.  Like most epoxies it can be sped up with heat.

[DC]

I like the speed of CA. I have always been suspicious of it though. The only time I've had it let go is when a bow breaks. Twice I've had an explosive break with yew and both times I guess it shook so hard both tips came off.

[Springbuck]

I definitely have had more problems with wood cracking or chipping up than any glue I have used.