Help me work this stave please.

[JWMALONE]

Still not at full draw 26 so far. I turned the bow around in my hand for the two pics. Brace is just under 5 inches.

[Pat B]

John, I think the tiller looks good. If you want the handle area to bend you will loose weight like Don said. Many of my bows in the last few years have flexed in the handle but I only feel a slight flex when I hit full draw. Not sure where your weight is now but if the bow shoots well and close to your desired weight I'd say she's good to go. If you kick the tips you gain a few pounds that you may have to sacrifice to get the handle area to flex.
 You've done an excellent job on this bow even though it might come in under weight or with a stiff handle it's still a nice bow with good tiller. It's all about give and take and experience gives you more control over that.

[JWMALONE]

Pat, after heat and a tip job its still pulling #55 at 26 inches. I thought I would work it on up to full draw to see if the handle bends. At 26 I don't feel any flex but I read somewhere a guy said if you feel it flexing 2 inches before you hit full draw it will most likely kick like a mule. You should feel it bend at or just barely before it hits full draw. So I have a little room to work with still. If I do work it up to full draw it  should be #60 or so which is fine with me, should loose some after shooting in. Any were between 55-65 is fine with me but I want the practice hitting target weight. If the bow shoots good I'm not going to jeopardize a good bow to adjust weight a few pounds.

[DC]

Looks great to me. Just and a little shiny and you're done.

[JWMALONE]

Also I usually don't do this but I'm putting a candy apple red paint job and mag wheels on this one.

[Pat B]

Spinners?   

[JWMALONE]

Spinners?   

As soon as hell freezes over. When I say mag wheels I'm talking about white 5 point wagon spokes ya use to see on pick up trucks.LOL

[DC]

Spinners?   

As soon as hell freezes over. When I say mag wheels I'm talking about white 5 point wagon spokes ya use to see on pick up trucks.LOL

Ya can't put wheels on it, we've got rules about that kind of thing

[Pat B]

You've got a point there, DC.   

[JWMALONE]

DC, That's a good one. I didn't think that one through. Sounded bad didn't it.

[burchett.donald]

  JW,
        That is an exceptional bend man... 55@26 probably 60@28 with just some exercise...
 Looking forward to full draw and spokes...
                                                                Don

[TimBo]

I bet the handle will give just slightly at full draw.  Even if not, I think I would leave it.  Nice work! 

[JWMALONE]

Well I must say I think I'm hooked on eastern woodland style bows. Need a lil more getting used to but I really like this style. After 250 arrows give or take it pulled #58.8 on the scale. That's two in a row that hit within #3 of target weight that is another success by itself. It does seem to flex just a tad in the handle which freaks me out as I'm not use to a bendy. Hand shock isn't that noticeable just a slight thump I guess you could say, very stable and balanced when drawing and losing otherwise. Needs more tuning with brace height and arrows but shoots way better than I would have thought. No pics yet, she's only half dressed so ill wait till I'm finished putting the lipstick and eyeshadow on her.
  Thanks Guys

[burchett.donald]

JW,
          I watched your patient build and I already knew that bow would be nearly dead in the hand...An ever so slightly bend in the handle at full draw as you have will be a smooth shooter...Some people go "beyond a circular tiller" on these and have the handle bending to much, that's where you are introduced to the mule and need a protective mouth piece...The NA knew that these bows were efficient killing machines...The bendy or D bow doesn't get the credit that it should...Your pictures are a fine example of balance between static fulcrum and dynamic fulcrum...
                                                                             
                                                                                                                                Don

[half eye]

JW,
    I been watching this thread and haven't said anything because Mr. Burchett has been giving you the straight skinny from the get-go. Eastern Woodland bows are my favorite and sort of a "specialty" for a lot of years and yours is a very nice example sir. You should, rightfully so, be proud of it.
    That "thump" you feel is mostly because you have a "full" grip on the bow hand. You may not be aware that a common misconception of the NA shooting style is that they drew from the quiver. More often than not the quiver is used for storage while the bow hand served as the magazine. Meaning the hunter would very often have 3-4 "extra" arrows in the bow hand while shooting and re-load the bow from those. I only mention this because it directly affects the "grip". If your bow hand is holding other arrows and the bow you can only grab the bow with the web between the first finger and the thumb and with a "high wrist" (palm of the hand not on the bow) as well.
    As evenly tillered as you are it will shoot really smooth with the "open" bow grip.....and no it wont jump out of your hand either. Looks like you not only captured the mechanics of the design but also the essence of the shooting form.

rich