A couple questions about stain and straitening.

[loefflerchuck]

A couple months ago I spent a few hundred on a dowel maker with all the fittings to turn all my own shafts. I've been making shoot shafts for decades and know very well how to straighten them and keep them straight.  I use heat and a bighorn sheep straightener. For dowel shafts, what is the best way to do the fine straightening without spending as much time as a shoot arrow? Roller?

I also have a question about stain. I made about 100 poplar shafts. I left a couple in the sprinklers for a few days and see why POC is so superior in raw form. I like the look of the natural wood instead of the high gloss shaft. I know to get the gloss look they are soaked for days. My question is, can I just rub on a couple coats of shellac or tung oil to seal the shaft enough to make it water resistant?

I am very new to turning my own shafts and your timesaving answers will be much help. I'm sure I will have more questions later.
Thanks
chuck

[PEARL DRUMS]

Chuck I use the heel of my hand to straighten shafts. Its very easy to do and very hard to explain in words. Basically your palm is facing up, the bent portion of the shaft is in the heel portion of your hand and the fingers on that same hand hold the arrow in place as the opposite hand flexes the shaft downward. The heel is your fulcrum.

I seal most of mine with either Tru Oil or tung oil, 4-5 coats. Then I fletch them and follow that up with 2-3 coats of paste wax from the leading edge of the feathers to the tip. Don't wax them prior to fletching, no glue will stick

[loefflerchuck]

Thanks Pearl. I know exactly what you mean. That is how I have been straightening them. Just seems to work best. And they stay straight that way?

[BowEd]

I've turned a number of split or cut shafts from a few different kinds of wood.Most times those kind of shafts do stay straighter for me then shoot shafts.Although a lot of older shoot shafts stay straight too and like them just as well.Honey locust/maple/walnut/spruce to name a few for split shafts.Each have their own weight and spine to suit.Funny but I like walnut myself.
Usually cold straightening like described is good enough but if slight heat is needed I use my Alladin mantle lamp to get any stubborn ones.

[ksnow]

I've had good luck straightening split shafts using the same method Pearl laid out.  I also burnish the shafts after applying the finish before fletching.  Not sure if it helps maintain straightness, but it sure makes them look pretty.

Kyle

[Pat B]

Chuck, I got some poplar shafts from Charlie Jefferson(stringstretcher) a few years ago that he made using the same tool. One thing he found was to start with well seasoned stock. He like his at least 2 years old. After making the shafts he ran them through a compression block. I don't really know the details other than that but the shafts I have and the arrows I made from some are very straight and remained straight.
 Charlie used both sapwood and heartwood and found that the sapwood worked the best. They are very strong shafts too. The heartwood was a little more brittle than the sapwood but it made nice shafts too.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Thanks Pearl. I know exactly what you mean. That is how I have been straightening them. Just seems to work best. And they stay straight that way?

The only time I have to re-straighten turned arrows is after a nasty deflection or a funny impact angle and deflection  

[Danzn Bar]

I always need a straightening session with my arrows after a round of 3D targets....especially cane or boo.
DBar

[PEARL DRUMS]

Good thing you gotta dozen spankin' new turned shaft arrows, big guy!

[Danzn Bar]

Yep, guess I'm spoiled .....may never go back to cane
DBar

[bjrogg]

Yup do have to admit it's much faster, easier and less maintenance with some good turned shafts. Dbar has the rig for a good straightening session though.
Bjrogg

[bjrogg]

Here's how it's done

[Danzn Bar]

Brian you caught me in a moment right there........
DBar