Planned 1st bow build

[stash59]

My plan for my 1st bow build revolves around some unique circumstances. Unfortuneatly I've been at war with a serious case of Chronic Lyme disease for more  than 7 years. Among the many health issues I have with it. Is I have suffered severe muscle atrophy. Especially in my upper body. Because of this I'm looking at a bow in the 15# or even less range. So I can better work on my form. I hunted last season with a 30# Samick Sage and to be honest I was still a little over bowed.

I plan on starting with a board bow to save costs. Plus so I can start now and not have to wait for a harvested stave to dry. I saw that our local Menards has some nice ash 5/4 stock boards. A member on a hunting forum I belong to recommended I build a flat bow. He also gave me some info on density and how wide and thick it should be. I also think I should back it since it's my first. I was thinking 2 layers of drywall mesh tape and 1 later of drywall paper tape. Just to get rid of the checkered look I've seen on bows made with just the mesh.

I'd appreciate any more input I can get on this! Design recommendations. Possible pitfalls of a bow with this light of a draw weight. What ever else all of you can think of.

If this 1st build goes well I'd like to build something with a draw weight of 30#+. 30# is the minimum required for hunting here in Wisconsin. Where I now live.

Thanx

Chuck

[GlisGlis]

Hello Chuck
I'd go for an all wood bow or for other kind of backing (you could use silk, linen or even paper if you dont want to use rawhide)

As your "first bow" question is pretty common I suggest you to read these topic first:
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=31796.0
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=41091.0
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,59527.0.html
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,57358.150.html

they're all about pyramid board bows that is an easy and tested start.
The fact you're aiming at a low poundage is pretty irrelevant. Building technique is the same

If you want to use harvested wood, for bow of 30 or less you can use saplings.
If you cut an hazel sapling you can speed dry it without many risks of checking and start making a bow in short time

[stash59]

Thanx GlisGlis!

Looks like I'll go with a pyramid design. I'm a firm believer in the KISS principle. Especially when trying something new!!!!

Chuck

[Springbuck]

 Good luck, and here's to better health!

At 15 lbs, you don't need much width, and tillering can be tricky when limbs are that thin.  Flatbow sounds great. Good luck.

[stash59]

That's what I figured. Maybe a kin of a cross hybrid between a pyramid and a flat bow! Narrower than normal for a pyramid at the fades and wider near the tips! Maybe a Holmgard type bow.

[stash59]

Heading in a different direction now. Because I have involuntary movements at times with the Chronic Lyme. I don't feel safe at this time driving to the lumber store. I always planned on cutting some bow wood this winter. So I cut some sapling staves last weekend.

Not sure what I got.

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I think the top one is white oak. Not sure on the other 2. Same tree.

Then yesterday I couldn't help myself.

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This is the shorter of the 2 from the same tree. Probably messed up already. Since it was froze I'm sure I went passed the sapwood. Hopefully I can just chase a ring and save it.

Gotta say it felt good doing something with my hands again.

I hope no one thinks I playing a sympathy card bringing up my Chronic Lyme disease. Just stating how it is. I just try to adapt and conquer what I can. How I can. And hope by sharing my difficulties. I can inspire someone else having a tough go to give it all they got to achieve their dreams.

[Springbuck]

You don't have to PLAY a sympathy card for us to wish you well.

Those look for all the world like about half the wood I work with.  I actually doubt you went through the first ring, since frozen under-bark wouldn't be a treat to remove, anyway.  But if so, rotate the stave and see if there is a bow in another spot.

I would work down the bow to 5/8"  thick limbs, leaving whatever width it gives you, then ABSOLUTELY restrain the staves to dry, like with straps or clamps.  Small saplings warp in the craziest ways. 

Some of the elm Siberian) that grows around here has bark just like that top one, but likely white oak.  Those others I have no idea.

[stash59]

Kept forgetting to take pics. Then couldn't get back at things til recently.

I got the bow roughed out to where I should let it dry. Then started right on another one. I could see plenty of errors with the first one. So with everything still fresh in my mind. I figured I could attempt to correct them with the second one. Got the second one roughed out to the drying point also. Within about 1 1/2 weeks from the start of the first.

Because of a step back health wise. I didn't get them sealed and strapped down til now. The second one bowed sideways abit. Guess I'll be learning about steam bending. Used the 50-50 Elmers to water mix to seal. But added more elmers to what was left to dip the ends. Now it's the waiting game. Plan on final rough shaping (tip sections) and tillering. Starting about mid April.

So here's some pics.



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The 2nd bow after it sat for awhile.

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Everything all strapped in.

Been working on getting some more tools and plans for a workbench. Once that's all ready I'll start my pyramid board bow.

[upstatenybowyer]

How long is that roughed out bow?

[stash59]

I didn't put a tape on any thing yet. Just used my hand for the handle size. About 3 fingers for the fades. It's about as tall as I am. So 72". I figured I could shorten it after I see how it dries. If need be.

Why aren't all of my pics posting? I tried again and it only did the first one so didn't post it.

[upstatenybowyer]

Nothing wrong with keeping it long for now. I was wondering because getting down to 15# with a bow that long would mean removing a lot of wood. I made two around that weight for my kids for Christmas and those were about  40" long, pyramid style with a constant thickness of about 1/4". To stay at that draw weight but go longer, you'd go thicker. So...

Maybe go pyramid style on the sapling with a constant thickness of 5/8" as Springbuck suggested. I wish you the best with the bow as well as your health!  (S

[stash59]

Thanx! Because I draw 29" I did't want to get too short. Which would perform better at this low weight? Long or mid length.

[stash59]

There we go!!

[George Tsoukalas]

Here is some info on sapling bows.
Take your time and don't push yourself. Making bows is pretty physical.
Jawge
http://traditionalarchery101.com/saplingbow.html

[Morgan]

Brother, looks like you're getting with it. You're going to love it. Glad you went the stave route, boards are good and where a lot of people including me start, but tillering out a bow from a stave  that you harvested is more fulfillung to me.
Good luck with your illness.
Looking forward to more posts of your progress.