Black cherry recommendations, And boom she goes

[WillS]

I posted the willow bow a while back in a thread on the main page about willow as a bow wood.  I think it's 95lb, but what's 5lb amongst friends, Shiney? 

[Stringman]

I am shocked. Wouldna believed it. 

[BowEd]

I posted the willow bow a while back in a thread on the main page about willow as a bow wood.  I think it's 95lb, but what's 5lb amongst friends, Shiney? 

That's 86#'s.

[willie]

So, if not a warbow, then what would be a good design for something like black cherry?

(I have a stave of a wood with a similar reputation, that has been in the warm box for almost too long, and needs to be tillered out soon)

[WillS]

I posted the willow bow a while back in a thread on the main page about willow as a bow wood.  I think it's 95lb, but what's 5lb amongst friends, Shiney? 

That's 86#'s.

Oh.  Ok, what's 14lb between friends

[Stringman]

So, if not a warbow, then what would be a good design for something like black cherry?

(I have a stave of a wood with a similar reputation, that has been in the warm box for almost too long, and needs to be tillered out soon)

I wouldn't use it. Far too many better bow woods out there, but that's JMHO.

[Mo_coon-catcher]

It seems like the heavy black cherry bow is nothing to pursue with much hope for it working. But it'll still be fun to toy with from time to time. I have lots of black locust and hickory for making hunting weight stuff. And with cherry being fickle on even light bows. I don't mind breaking a few over time to see what it would finally take to make it work. I think it'll be fun to see just what it does take. I might make one my MoJam progect this year. Last year I exploded some cedar, might as well explode some cherry this year. Someone has to cause a little store with an exploding bow.

Kyle

[RyanY]

Just worked some black cherry for the second time last month. Even with great tiller and a perfectly flat belly it is still quite soft for what I thought was a pretty good board I picked out. I wouldn't think a bow of comfortable dimensions could be made for warbow weight. Uncomfortable dimensions? Absolutely. As for my poplar bow... perhaps its time for an update to say the least. 

[meanewood]

One thing I remember when I started out and read the bowyers bible was what Tim Baker ( I think) said when ever he heard someone say a particular wood wouldn't make a bow. He would immediately go out to prove otherwise!
This doesn't mean he thought every wood was suitable but if you don't try, you wont know for sure.

My advise would be to select your best stave of BC, give it a flat belly, keep it long (80in) and heat treat.
Don't try for more than 100lbs and aim for a even tiller, making the whole length work right from the start.
Give it your best effort and be patient.

Then my Friend you can be the one on this forum to say I told you so whichever way it turns out!

[OTDEAN]

Never ceases to amaze me how Wills argues the toss and likes to create drama on here.  ***Gets Popcorn*** You go girl! 

[Mo_coon-catcher]

This last one was about 80" NTN with the belly having a shallow curve making it comfortable to hold onto, and the widest parts were 1 3/4 -1 7/8" then tapering from there. I checked the peices after exploding and there were no frets yet, it broke in tension before they appeared. But it was only pulled to 25", so who knows, they might have appeared if I got it back 1 more inch. The next go I'll glue on a backing of paper and see if that'll help the tension issue. In addition to getting the middle moving a bit sooner. Even if it explodes or frets, it's only a peice of wood and an afternoon worth of time. Better spent exploding a preice of wood than watching tv. Plus it was pretty fun watching it explode, I don't see that too often. I'll give it another go once I get the bows for people caught up. I wish I could get the video up. I figured it wouldn't hold so i videod it bending on the tree.

Kyle

[WillS]

It might be worth avoiding a "normal" taper and opting for something similar to the MR shape.  Keep it as wide as possible for around 20 to 30cm each side of the center then taper gently (almost none at all) down to a point say 8" from the tip.  Then do a much more drastic taper to finish the tips.  This keeps the bow wide and stable for a lot longer, which for any uncertain timber is always nice!

I have a feeling you'll get it working, but as meanewood mentioned, get the whole thing really even from the start.  If what people are saying is correct and it likes to chrysal you don't wanna give it any opportunities to do so!

[Badger]

   Mooncatcher, if you still have the broken pieces would you mind weighing them?

  As for black cherry, I don't think of it as a very reliable wood but I do like it for elb flight bows. I only use it for lighter weight bows like 35# or 50# and that is because its light weight allws me to mainatin decent demensions and not have to be too narrow. I also find it to be naturally low in histerisis. Last year I made about 5 white oak backed cherry to settle on 2 I felt were ELB flight bow quality. Both bows tested out very good.

[Mo_coon-catcher]

There might be a couple chips missing. But I've got atleast 99% of it sitting in my room. What would be your preferred units? I can do grams and ounces. I don't think I've got a grain scale that goes high enough.

Kyle

[Badger]

  Ounces or grams would be fine