Author Topic: Arrow wood?  (Read 4074 times)

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Offline JoJoDapyro

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Arrow wood?
« on: June 21, 2016, 01:44:10 pm »
So, I have made dowel arrows, and then tonkin arrows. I was wondering what other wood I can buy and make into dowels to make arrows. Western Red cedar? Hemlock? Douglas Fir? Poplar? Let me know what has worked for you, and what hasn't. Thanks.

Joe
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline RBLusthaus

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #1 on: June 21, 2016, 02:06:31 pm »
I use pine, poplar, maple, and ash, in that order -  also depending on desired spine.   

Russ

Offline Aaron H

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2016, 02:13:43 pm »
I like Doug fir, and Sitka spruce

Offline DC

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2016, 03:01:49 pm »
I tried old growth Western Hemlock(35-40 rings per inch) and while it was very straight and stable it seemed a little brittle. I'm comparing it to bamboo so take that into consideration.

Online Pat B

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2016, 03:59:22 pm »
Poplar makes a very good, durable arrow.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline loon

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2016, 04:06:24 pm »
I have yet to make arrows from Pseudosasa Japonica I got from Jaap Koppedrayer. Much more thin walls than tonkin, I assume it's lighter for the same spine

Witch hazel?

Offline BowEd

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2016, 10:35:25 am »
Generally JoJo with most shaft wood I'm looking for a lot of rings per inch.Elasticity and density in a nice combo for shafts.Seems the denser then I can make skinnier shafts with conifers.Ring pourous can be different or thicker rings and make good shafts.Then it's a matter of how elastic it is too.I'd like to find a place that has hickory dowels myself.Ramin I think has been used too although not by me.
BowEd
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Ed

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2016, 11:55:40 am »
Generally JoJo with most shaft wood I'm looking for a lot of rings per inch.Elasticity and density in a nice combo for shafts.Seems the denser then I can make skinnier shafts with conifers.Ring pourous can be different or thicker rings and make good shafts.Then it's a matter of how elastic it is too.I'd like to find a place that has hickory dowels myself.Ramin I think has been used too although not by me.

I am the high bidder of a Vertitas Dowel maker. I'll try what I can. Ramin from what I have read is very hard to straighten. I'll have to see what the local wood place has in hickory . The rest I can get at the big box store (Red oak, western red cedar, douglas, poplar, hemlock) including red oak dowels, poplar dowels.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Online Pat B

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #8 on: June 22, 2016, 12:01:31 pm »
Well seasoned wood will make better, more stable arrows.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #9 on: June 22, 2016, 12:13:38 pm »
Well seasoned wood will make better, more stable arrows.

Well seasoned versus kiln dried?
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Online Pat B

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #10 on: June 22, 2016, 02:10:42 pm »
Well seasoned like 2+ years at least. Kiln dried would probably be OK after 2 years.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline BowEd

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #11 on: June 23, 2016, 01:40:23 am »
Forgot to mention I did red oak and it makes good shafts.45 to 50 spine in a nice weight range.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline wayne nicol

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #12 on: June 27, 2016, 09:53:28 pm »
i agree with Pat, with kiln dried wood, one doesnt know what you are getting- was the wood dried slowly in a dehumidifying kiln- minimal heat- and in turn minimal damage to the actual cell structure of the wood, or was it dried in a pressurized steam kiln, where a load of 2x4 can be dried in a fraction of the time- with horrendous damage to the internal cell structure- still meets regs for construction- just no good for archery. i had a piece of chundoo( lodgepole pine) 2x4 - i hit it along the wider edge with a sledge hammer from about 2 feet away- it sheered right off where it was clamped. sure a bit of force- but it should never do that.

wood in the round dries at about 1'' of radius per year- split will dry a lot faster- so it takes a long time- like Pat says!!!

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: Arrow wood?
« Reply #13 on: June 28, 2016, 09:47:37 am »
I do have some wood that has been drying for some time. Some pine, Maple, locust, Russian olive, and juniper. I'll have to see what works.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.