Author Topic: Arrow build-a-long (Read 30863 times)

Knoll · « **Reply #30 on:** June 05, 2016, 10:03:40 pm »

Paint sticks well to that finish that was on those shafts?

Gettin' close to bareshaft testing time!

bjrogg · « **Reply #31 on:** June 05, 2016, 10:08:54 pm »

Yea knoll the way I've been doing mine lately next I'd put on points and shoot bare shaft both ways. I'm interested to see what Clint does next.

osage outlaw · « **Reply #32 on:** June 05, 2016, 10:15:04 pm »

Knoll, I sanded the shafts before I painted them.

I got the rest of my turkey feathers ground today. I did some peacock wing feathers to. They grind better than the turkey feathers do.

Mounter · « **Reply #33 on:** June 05, 2016, 11:09:59 pm »

Quote from: osage outlaw on June 05, 2016, 09:38:35 pm

BJ, I think I'm going to use glue on field points. I might use duplex nail points on some of them also.

Mounter, what team do you root for?

America's team!!!!

Pappy · « **Reply #34 on:** June 06, 2016, 06:29:33 am »

Clint bare shafting is pretty simple, like was said you do need to be consistent on anchor, but I just leave them pretty long, and what ever tip weight I plan on using. Then get close, say 7 or 8 yards, line up straight with the target, shoot, for a right handed shooter if the arrow hits the target leaning left it is to weak, cut it off a bit, if it is really bad left slant , cut maybe and inch to start, just keep doing that until it hits in the target straight, maybe a little nock high. As you get closer be sure to shoot it more than once and take off less at a time. If it hits with a right slant you will have to add point weight or sand the shaft to weaken it up. You can make a really nice set of flying arrows by doing them one at a time. It takes time but to me well worth it. If I see anything but nock when I shoot and arrow I ant happy with it.

Pappy

bjrogg · « **Reply #35 on:** June 06, 2016, 06:33:41 am »

Thanks pappy that's explaining it nice a simple.

osage outlaw · « **Reply #36 on:** June 06, 2016, 06:53:29 am »

Yes, thanks for that info Pappy.

Pappy · « **Reply #37 on:** June 06, 2016, 07:13:28 am »

That will also explain why if you look at my quiver, when I shoot Cain or shoot shafts that they are different lengths, I just tune each arrow, you don't have that problem near as bad with bought shafts.
You can usually tune 1 and if the others are spline the same you can go with that length and point weight on all of them. However it is a good idea to check them all before you cut them ,even with bought shafts, I made up and tuned some Alaskan spruce shafts this weekend and they all splined with in a couple of lb's of each other except for 1 and it was 74lb spline. That is why if you don't check each you can make up a dozen and always seem to have a few that just don't fly right. People say I will use it for a stump arrow but if it don't fly right and hit where I look I don't even want to shoot at a stump with it. I fix it or break it.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with Clint.
Pappy

osage outlaw · « **Reply #38 on:** June 06, 2016, 11:04:08 am »

Thanks Pappy. I spine tested a handful of these shafts and they were all 63-64 lbs. I guess I better go with glue on points to figure out the bare shaft length of them.

Last night I put some feathers in the kool-aid dye. Some guys use alcohol, vinegar, or boil the feathers in the kool-aid. I've had good luck just mixing it with water and letting it soak over night. I've got arrows that are 3 or 4 years old and the feathers have kept their color.

I used orange and mixed berry. The feathers float. I fill the container to the top and then push them down with the lid. I put them in tip down and alternate the the sides that are touching so they don't stick together and not get dyed.

Urufu_Shinjiro · « **Reply #39 on:** June 06, 2016, 11:29:04 am »

"Oh, yeeeeaaaahhhh!!!"

Knoll · « **Reply #40 on:** June 06, 2016, 11:43:53 am »

Good explanation, Pappy.

Here's sumpin else that may be of use to some re bareshaft testing.

I shoot at a BIG "can't miss" target because a bareshaft arrow can sometimes go really wonky on ya and try to fly into left/right field ..... beginning your bareshaft testing at 6-7 yd shooting distance is good advice. As ya get arrows seeming to fly straight at 6-7 yd, move back to 10-12 yd and observe. When arrow shooting straight at 10-12, move back to 15. I stop at 15. Some folk go back to 20.

Another reason for BIG target is so ya can concentrate on watching arrow's flight, rather than focusing on hitting a spot. I don't completely trust how shaft is stuck in target to tell me degree of left/right nock. Instead, I watch how it flies. Reason is because my targets tend to be too shot up to trust how shaft sticks outta target.

Last, shoot an arrow multiple times before deciding how it's flying. Release can really affect bareshaft flight, so ya don't want to make decisions based on just one shot.

Oh, yeah ...... here's Kool Aid color chart for the feather dyeing.
http://www.dyeyouryarn.com/kool-aid.html

osage outlaw · « **Reply #41 on:** June 06, 2016, 11:24:46 pm »

Thanks for the info Knoll. I got a big blob target at the Classic that will be good for bare shaft shooting.

I took the feathers out of the kool-aid and dipped them in a bowl of water before laying them out to dry. I put a second batch in to soak overnight.

Thunder · « **Reply #42 on:** June 06, 2016, 11:31:35 pm »

Nice build along Clint, can't wait to see the finished product.

Thunder

Knoll · « **Reply #43 on:** June 07, 2016, 12:50:13 am »

colors look vibrant!

Pappy · « **Reply #44 on:** June 07, 2016, 03:55:19 am »

Man them feathers turned out nice.

Pappy

Primitive Archer