Onebowwonder, I'll try to answer some of your questions. I don't know of any such build-along, but I don't think it's necessary.
1] Are there particular wood species this method is best suited for?
Not really. I've used it on various bow woods and in various designs and construction methods... d/r, hybrids, recurves, in selfbows, bamboo backed bows and trilams.
2] What approximate range of dimensions will it work for?
I'm not sure I understand this question. What dimensions? Do you mean thickness of limb prior to kerfing? If so, the best suited thickness depends on how drastic of a curve you intend to inflict on it upon glue up. If you're going full recurve, it should be nearly working limb thickness prior to kerfing. And of course it could be a wee bit thicker if you were simply inducing some reflex. It will behoove you to do this with outer limbs that have neither much ring or grain runout. If they do have runout, I would opt for reflex rather than more radical recurve shapes.
3] Are there any particular suggested precautions when doing this method? (i.e. - ...things that might have gone wrong before for someone that has used the method that they might be able to advise another on as a forewarning.)
See above ;^)
Also, use a method similar to what I mentioned in an earlier post about finding the proper thickness lam dimensions, because if you you force the lam down into the kerf, it can easily cause a split starting at the bottom of the kerf and running into the limb.
4] At what point in the build process should this method be implemented? (i.e. - ...at floor tiller? ...completed tiller? ...untillered blank stave or board perhaps?)
I've done it in all of those instances... as long as when kerfed, each individual piece is able to make the bend you intend.
5] Can this method be utilized to recover some of the effect of set that has occurred in an older bow?
Sure. Though, depending on other factors, it may cause it to take more set elsewhere.
6] A bandsaw was mentioned as the preferred tool for the work. What TPI blade is suggested for this work?
This isn't a critical factor. I've used blades as course as 3/4" with 3 teeth per inch. Cutting accuracy and tool familiarity is more important.
Will a Japanese pull saw work as an effective substitute?
Perhaps. I've never tried.
7] What-ever-else tips might be locked away in the mind of someone that has actually used this technique a few times previously that they might be able to share.
When everything is ready, glue is applied, lam slid into place, and you're ready to pull the pieces down into the jig to effect the bend..... The FIRST clamp should go right where the kerf ended BEFORE any bending is done. I had one crack there one time when I pulled it down into a recurve jig and I'm convinced that wouldn't have happened if I had placed a clamp there first.
Any other questions or concerns.... fire away.
