How to spice billets and make a narrow handle

[arachnid]

Hi guys.
I'm about to splice my 2 mulberry billets. It's the first time I'm splicing.
 I'm used to make my handles about an inch wide, how do I splice the billets at the handle and still make the narrow handle strong enough?

And another this- I'm going to do it all with hand tools so if you have any advice on how to do it right, that will be great.

Thanks

Dor

[PatM]

Make your cuts at a smaller angle...   Hand tools are not a handicap.

[Stick Bender]

I think there's a thread in the archives about splicing billets & making paterens lots of pics & nicely done.

[arachnid]

Is a V splice or a box splice strong enough for a self bow? Should I add some kind of overlay on the back/belly side of the splice?
Maybe drill and insert dowel with glue?

[PatM]

A V-splice is fine with a good glue.   Overlays help and you can also wrap the handle with strong cord set in glue for insurance. No need for dowels.

[Eric Krewson]

I recommend a Z splice. If your cuts don't fit very well heat them and clamp them hot without glue, they will form to each other.

Here is a Z splice limb replacement on an existing bow with a narrow handle.



Draw out your splice and glue the paper pattern on you bow handle, this is another limb replacement.

[Del the cat]

Yeah, just remember the make the splice angles based on the final handle width not the full stave width.
Del

[DC]

I borrowed your picture Eric, thanks. 
Make sure the two lines I have the arrows on are parallel. If you use a small ruler or something you can draw lines on either side to be sure they are parallel. I've found it makes quite a difference in the joint. And +1 on the boil and clamp.

[mullet]

From your Title I thought I needed to move it to the Cooking Thread.

[Emmet]

From your Title I thought I needed to move it to the Cooking Thread.

Lol 

[TimBo]

I have yet to join any billets, and have always wondered about this.  Looking at Eric's photo, how do you account for the curve of the bottom billet?  If you draw the templates the same and one billet is flatter, it seems to me that they wouldn't fit too well.  I should probably re-read the the splicing chapter of TBB. 

[Markus]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,25117.msg337701.html#msg337701

[DC]

I glue the two billets together with a couple of dabs of 5 min epoxy to keep them in line while I saw them with a band saw. I agree with Timbo, the line will will bend if put on a curved surface. If I can't get a flat surface I glue a piece of thin plywood on with 5 min epoxy. I just finished doing this about 10 minutes ago and I'm boiling the joint now to make up for my failings. I should have taken pictures

[DC]

Well here's a picture of it drying . I'm tickled with this one .

[Eric Krewson]

The curve is not an issue, you end up with a shaped handle. I do flatten the back of the handle before I run the wood through my bandsaw for stability. I like to glue on wood to thicken the handle, this reinforces the splice even more.

I flatten the billet like this;



And add wood to the handle like this;




I have made over 100 bows with spliced billets, thick handles, thin handles, mostly osage ,maybe a few hickory and red oak. None have ever come apart on any poundage bow, I used urac and now use unibond.