A whole brick seems to be about what I usually get. Bear in mind I try to support the bow on the tiller where it will be supported in the hand and draw it from where the string will be pulled.
This post shows what a difference that can make.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/tillering-symmetry.htmlThere is little difference visible at brace if you look at the video on Youtube.
Experience has shown me that if I tillered it to look perfectly symmetrical, it would look weak in the lower limb when actually shot.
That's one reason i take video and generally also take pics with a bow being actually shot. Hopefully I'll get some pics of it being shot at the weekend... it's too heavy for me, I damn near tweaked my back stringing it
Dunno if this pic helps. Two identical circles/ellipses offset by the length of the grip showing the two limbs have a similar curve. I s'pose to some extent it depends where you visualise the hand that holds the bow and where the weight is supported. Base of thumb or heel of hand... all rather subtle and subjective.
You also need to view it in the light of how it progresses from the earlier stages... the tiller may not be perfect, but it is vastly improved over the course of the build. It also needs to be viewed relative to the unbraced stave. It's not made from machined laminations!
Del