New arrows

[DC]

I started with this, the split one, Western Hemlock old growth about 35 RPI

[DC]

And got these. 30" long. 125 gr points. The spine is 34,35 and 36#. The weight is 434,439 and 436 gr. Balance point is from the front 11.5,11.5 and 12 inches. Did a quick test, 4 rounds, and shot the best groups of my life. I'm pumped.

[le0n]

^^ giggity.

that's a clean looking set.

what's the arrow length and point weight; and bow specs?

[DC]

length is 30". Point weight is 125 gr. The bow is 38#

[PlanB]

Hmm, I've got tons of Canadian hemlock here -- would that work as well?

They do look great! What did you attach the feathers with?

[le0n]

are the shafts tapered any?

the last photo may be tricking my eyes with the lens distortion.

[DC]

Hmm, I've got tons of Canadian hemlock here -- would that work as well?

They do look great! What did you attach the feathers with?

Thank you! Don't know about Can Hem. I use thick CA to glue the fletch

[DC]

are the shafts tapered any?

the last photo may be tricking my eyes with the lens distortion.

The tips are recycled and were a bit smaller than the shaft so I tapered the arrow slightly to match.

[PlanB]

Sorry to ask so many questions DC but your arrows seem just right for what I need to make, including the material. What is the untapered diameter of your arrows? And the dark bands near the nock and head -- is that a thread wrap there to keep the wood from splitting? And how did you round your shafts? Thanks!

[le0n]

are the shafts tapered any?

the last photo may be tricking my eyes with the lens distortion.

The tips are recycled and were a bit smaller than the shaft so I tapered the arrow slightly to match.

my apologies for not being specific, i meant are they tapered from thick (point area) to thin (towards the fletch area); or just straight shafts?

[bowandarrow473]

very fine looking arrows DC, well done!

[DC]

are the shafts tapered any?

the last photo may be tricking my eyes with the lens distortion.

The tips are recycled and were a bit smaller than the shaft so I tapered the arrow slightly to match.

my apologies for not being specific, i meant are they tapered from thick (point area) to thin (towards the fletch area); or just straight shafts?

Pretty much straight. not deliberately tapered anyway.

[DC]

Sorry to ask so many questions DC but your arrows seem just right for what I need to make, including the material. What is the untapered diameter of your arrows? And the dark bands near the nock and head -- is that a thread wrap there to keep the wood from splitting? And how did you round your shafts? Thanks!

I didn't know what the diameter was. Had to measure them. It's about .33" so just under 11/32". I hand planed the shafts to close to 3/8" and then chucked them up in a drill and ran them back and forth on the belt sander while spinning the drill. Makes them quite round. The reason I didn't know the diameter is that I would sand them a bit and then spine them so I was making them by spine weight rather than diameter. Yes that is thread to keep it from splitting. I use Kevlar fly tying thread. The tips are duplex nails. I have a metal lathe so I can drill the shafts to take the nail tips. It's the one thing I'm a little concerned about. I'm afraid the shaft might be a bit weak where the hole ends. I'll try them and see.

[PlanB]

Ah ha, a metal lathe! I was feeling guilty when thinking about using mine to drill for the point nails on a primitive arrow. I built mine from scratch, so I maybe could use that as an excuse.    Actually I was kinda thinking about turning up some field points from rod instead of nails, too 

Thank you kindly DC for all the info! I finally got some feathers, and happen to have sawn up some Can. hemlock into boards a month ago. ....feels like this thread was just what I needed at just the right time.

[DC]

My lathe is 35 years old so it's kind of primitive. Actually in lathe years it's kind of new.